After working as a chef in the Swedish capital, Stockholm, Andreas Mikko’s yearning to go back home to Swedish Lapland became obvious. “I missed nature and my friends up here. I grew up east of the city of Kiruna; since I was a little boy I have been out fishing and played in the forest,” Mikko recalls.
It is early October when we speak and the mountains outside his home are already snow-capped. In the south of Sweden autumn has just arrived.
When Mikko returned, he had two options: either work in the mine or with tourists. The choice seemed easy. “I started an internship at an airline company and shortly after set up my own company. I had no plan, but I invested in a mini bus, fishing rods and backpacks, and started picking up tourists from Kiruna to go fishing.
This year we are in on our 14th season, running a very organised programme for people all over the world. Our advantage is that we still stay very genuine, it’s not touristy at all.” Mikko has been working with Weekend a la Carte for more than 10 years to develop northern lights holidays, which includes a stay at the Máttaráhkká Northern Light Lodge that Mikko manages in the winter.
The lodge only has seven rooms and is kept very personal. The interior pays homage to the Sami women who used it to sell their art here. Mikko’s mission is to make people aware of the Sami culture and move away from the common misunderstandings of the region. “A classic myth is that we have polar bears. You even hear it from people from south of Sweden,” Mikko says with a laugh.
“People are often not aware of the fact that the Sami people have their own language, their own flag and culture. On the first night guests will meet with our Sami guide Håkan Enoksson. We spend time on his reindeer farm and talk about Sami culture, and experience some of his everyday chores, like feeding the reindeers, lighting a fire and using a lasso.”
Right outside the lodge people go skiing, try out snowmobiles, sit by the fireplace and view the northern lights from the rooftop. Because of the unique microclimate in the area that results in cloudless skies, Abisko has become world-famous for its views of the northern lights.
“It’s an amazing experience to see the northern lights with the Abisko Alps as a backdrop. From the roof you can see miles of untouched nature, it gives a feeling of freedom,” Mikko says. In addition, the winter season offers a spectacular light phenomenon called the Kamos, which makes the sky turn lilac, pink and blue.
Some of the other activities that Mikko organises include driving a dog sledge through the widespread landscape; travelling around 40 kilometres on a snowmobile across the Lapland wilderness and a visit to the Ice Hotel.
Staying true to his childhood adventures, however, the most memorable experiences for Mikko are also the most extreme ones. “You can go on the snowmobile in calm weather with blue skies and miles ahead of you in sight, and then all of a sudden the weather changes completely into a full storm and you can only see one metre ahead of you. Those are the days I remember.”
Four days at the Máttaráhkká and Abisko Mountain Lodge
Day 1
The first night will include a meeting with a local Sami guide, including seeing his reindeers and looking for the northern lights. The evening ends around the fire in the Sami tepee for hot drinks and supper while listening to stories of Sami life.
Day 2
The snowmobile trip will cover 40 kilometres of untouched wilderness. In the afternoon, enjoy a trip to the Ice Hotel. When you return to the lodge, a two-course traditional dinner awaits. You can also upgrade to a hot tub evening on the roof of the lodge, with panoramic views of the northern lights or the aurora borealis.
Day 3
A true Lapland experience includes dog sleighing. Drive it yourself or just enjoy the ride. You will stop for lunch in a wilderness cabin before returning. In the evening, you arrive at Abisko, which has the most cloud-free sky in northern Sweden – and therefore a perfect spot for viewing the aurora – and check into the Abisko Mountain Lodge. A meal is followed by a transfer to the Abisko Sky Station to view the lights.
Day 4
This day will include a trip to Narvik, where you can view the Norwegian fjords. The bus tour offers many opportunities to stop and take photos along the way. You will spend the night at the lodge, where you will take part in a workshop learning how to photograph the northern lights.
Day 5
Transfer to Kiruna airport for your flight home.
Weekend à la carte aurora nights offers a four-night trip to Swedish Lapland from £1,795pp, including flights and four nights lodge accommodation, three of which at the Máttaráhkká Northern Light Lodge. The price includes a Sami northern lights experience, an evening at the Abisko Sky Station, Lights over Lapland photo workshop, dog sledging, a day snowmobile adventure, a visit to the IceHotel and a day trip to the Norwegian fjords. The price also includes gear, transfers and all meals.
