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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle

A-Z of fashion in 2009

Gallery A-Z fashion: Alice Hawkins
Alice Hawkins

The Essex-born photographer's subjects include wealthy Russian women and Americans with exotic pets, but she's equally at home shooting beauty queens in Blackpool. An exhibition of her work is on now at the Northern Gallery for Contemporary Art. Look out for her latest photos in the first issue of new magazine Love (see L).

alicehawkins.com
Photograph: Alice Hawkins
Gallery A-Z fashion: Bra tops
Bra tops

Miuccia Prada has put the bra top back in the style spotlight - her spring/summer 2009 collection featured stark black bras worn with a crumpled silk skirt and a scowl. The collection was supposedly inspired by what women really want, and featured lashings of gold and heels. Whether women really want to display their bras remains to be seen. For those of us not blessed with a midriff like Keira Knightley, the answer is probably no.
Photograph: Biasion Studio/WireImage
Gallery A-Z fashion: Clarks
Clarks gets cool

The classic British shoe brand has smartened up. Following on from last season's cute leather ankle boots, the spring collection brings elegant wedges - the Deep Space in poppy-red patent features a peeptoe and an on-trend wooden heel (£59.99) - and sexy strappy numbers. The spring collection hits Clarks stores from mid-January and is available from the website now.

clarks.co.uk
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Daphne Guinness
Daphne Guinness does a scent

London's most dedicated follower of fashion, Daphne Guinness is renowned for collecting haute couture and friendships with Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, et al. Last year she launched her own fashion line, Daphne, at Dover Street Market and is adding to the range with a perfume. If it's half as charming and original as her fashion sense, it's going to be good.

Available exclusively at Dover Street Market this spring
Photograph: Nick Harvey/WireImage
Gallery A-Z fashion: Matt & Nat
Ethical websites

Green queens will love mygreenlipstick.com, a recently launched fashion website that sells a chic range of designers including vegetarian accessory brand Matt & Nat, vegan shoe label Beyond Skin and anti-sweatshop LA label Del Forte. One useful feature is that you can search by ethics (by carbon footprint, organic or vegan), product or designer. Yet another excellent reason to shop online.
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Fringing
Fringing

This long-ignored design detail was interpreted by dozens of designers for spring. Alexander McQueen opted for a flapper-style version in the form of short-fringed shift dresses, while Jean Paul Gaultier went for super-sleek fringed suede skirts and ponchos. Raf Simons at Jil Sander even looped and draped fringing over bodysuits. Wear it with care: if in doubt, opt for a leather fringed bag or a vintage fringed scarf.
Photograph: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP
Gallery A-Z fashion: Giles Deacon for Smythson
Giles Deacon for Smythson

The trend for stylish stationery won't die. This season Smythson has created our favourite range with London designer Giles Deacon. The collection of gorgeous correspondence cards features stunning sketches of models in couture gowns. There are five different designs to choose from, and they're in store from 6 January.

Smythson, 40 New Bond Street, London W1 (020 7629 8558; smythson.com)
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Dali
Homage to Dalí

Dalí Universe has opened a new exhibition of work by contemporary fashion designers. Dalí-inspired dresses by edgy Brit labels Modernist, Manish Arora and Bora Aksu feature alongside fantastical frocks from big names such as Julien Macdonald, Moschino and Sonia Rykiel.

Homage to Dalí is on at the Dalí Universe, County Hall, Riverside Building, London SE1 (0870 744 7485; countyhallgallery.com)
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Insider's secret
Insider's secret

Fans of the humble hoodie should check out new menswear label House of Bendie. Designer Thomas Bird and business partner Dan Levy use luxury fabrics such as Harris tweeds and exquisite Liberty-print lining (all sourced in the UK) to make their reversible hoodies. Their bespoke service involves a full measuring and fitting session. You can even choose where the pockets go.

houseofbendie.com
Photograph: guardian.co.uk
Gallery A-Z fashion: Jumpsuits
Jumpsuits

Stella McCartney has been showing them on the catwalk for years, and last spring/summer other designers finally joined forces to bring the jumpsuit marching back into style. The trend is set to continue this year. On the high street you'll find plenty from stores such as Asos, Topshop and Mango, where the look's been refined and made a little more everyday.

asos.com
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Kelsey and Kirkwood - Kirkwood
Kelsey and Kirkwood

The best new shoe designers are Jonathan Kelsey and Nicholas Kirkwood. Kelsey's elegantly sculpted heels are sold in Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Joseph. Fellow Brit Nicholas Kirkwood creates finely constructed architectural shoes that are stocked at Browns, Liberty and Start.

jonathankelsey.com; nicholaskirkwood.com
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Katie Grand
Love

Katie Grand was poached by Condé Nast last year to dream up a new fashion title. The debut issue of Love launches on 19 February. Grand is one of the most in-demand stylists and important editors in fashion. The new title will doubtless feature the work of the best photographers in fashion, and the coolest celebrity and trend features. We've heard that Gossip singer Beth Ditto will be the cover star for the first issue, while curvy Kelly Brook will feature inside.
Photograph: Nick Harvey/WireImage
Gallery A-Z fashion: Metallic makeup
Metallic makeup

Here's a cheap way of buying into a big spring trend: invest in metallic eye shadow. Thanks to catwalk beauty trendsetters MAC, gold and silver eye shadows are key looks this spring. There are plenty of versions at different prices. Nars and new stage make-up brand Illamasque are our top tips. All brands are available at selected department stores nationwide.
Photograph: MAC
Gallery A-Z fashion: Alexis Mabille
Name to remember

The new name to drop is that of French designer Alexis Mabille. The Parisian-based designer has been wowing front-rowers at the couture collections with his glamorous and highly eccentric designs for his own label. Looks include flamboyant cocktail frocks for ladies and dandyish suits, dripping with adornment and embellishments, for men.

alexismabille.com
Photograph: PR
Gallery Life and style: Dame Edna Everage
Optical excess

Anglo American Optical made Christopher Reeve's Clark Kent frames for Superman and Dame Edna's glasses, and have just finished an order for iconic spec wearer Woody Allen. The antithesis of mass production, many of Anglo American's frames are made by old frame-makers at home or in garages.

aaoco.com
Photograph: Patrick Riviere/Getty
Gallery A-Z fashion: Pairings
Pairing

Each season more designers team up with the high street. H&M has hooked up with Matthew Williamson for spring/summer. Check out the whimsical range, which promises lots of gorgeous summer frocks. Topshop has a stellar line-up: find the ranges from Marios Schwab and Richard Nicoll in store from February, Kate Moss's spring collection from March, and Jonathan Saunders and Preen in late March.
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Queen Nefertiti
Queen Nefertiti

Forget Marilyn or Marlene - there's a style icon far greater, and more eternal. The Egyptian was famed for her beauty, and her bust is one of the best-known images of ancient Egyptian culture. It was only a matter of time before her look would work its way back into modern-day fashion: hair genius Orlando Pitti sculpted models' hair into Nefertiti styles at the spring Dior show. Other designers incorporated opulent Egyptian styling into their collections.
Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP
Gallery Life and style: Christopher Kane Spring Summer show
Riotous colour

Clashing colours - such as pink worn with orange or greens worn with blue - are the way forward in the recession. Christopher Kane dazzled onlookers with his vivid collection which spliced mustard yellows, lime greens and mandarin shades; Richard Nicoll favoured the orange and pink combo, achieving one of the season's best collections, while Viktor & Rolf dabbled in fiery oranges and reds, with dynamic results.
Photograph: Nils Jorgensen / Rex Features/Nils Jorgensen / Rex Features
Gallery A-Z fashion: Statement swimwear
Statement swimwear

Bad news for keen swimmers: that humble Speedo one-piece is going to look a little dowdy come summer. Statement swimwear was a huge trend on the spring/summer catwalks and flesh-revealing, super-styled swimming costumes are back. OK, if we're being really honest that means back on certain exclusive poolsides in St Tropez and Mustique on the lithe forms of women who won't actually swim in them. But still, we can dream.
Photograph: Alessandro Garofalo/Reuters
Gallery A-Z fashion: 20s-style glamour - Gloria Swanson
20s-style glamour

The hedonistic 20s are making a comeback for eveningwear. Many designers, including Jean Paul Gaultier, have delved back to the heady glamour of the flapper girl, creating drop-waisted dresses which wouldn't have looked out of place on Gloria Swanson circa 1925.
Photograph: Corbis/Bettman
Gallery A-Z fashion: Unpretentious chic
Unpretentious chic

Jordan Askill produces truly unique jewellery incorporating birds, roses and boys' heads wrought from metal. His current collection was inspired when he gave his heart-shaped silver rings as gifts to friends. The charmingly simple range includes a single heart ring, a three-heart ring and a heart bracelet.

Prices from £120. Available at Liberty, Great Marlborough Street, London W1 (020 7734 1234; liberty.co.uk)
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Vintage Queen
Vintage queen

It's getting harder to find period clothes in second-hand shops and boutiques as the trend for vintage continues. Our great new find is Sophie Merchant's shop, Merchant Archive, which stocks a fine collection sourced from around the globe, including Victorian pieces.

Merchant Archive, 320 Kilburn Lane, London W9 (020 8969 6470; merchantarchive.com)
Photograph: Public Domain
Gallery A-Z fashion: Wooden sandals
Wooden sandals

Following on from last year's sculpted and decorated wedge, the sophisticated new take on the platform shoe theme is the wooden platform sandal exemplified by Gucci in all its spectacular, curvy glory. Also check out styles by Christian Louboutin and Sergio Rossi. On the high street, head to Kurt Geiger and Office.

gucci.com/uk
Photograph: PR
Gallery Life and style: Josh Hartnett
Xtra special menswear

With a client list that includes kings, presidents, rock stars and actors (such as Josh Hartnett, left), Stowers Bespoke offers the very best in design and cut. The label also sources fabrics from traditional British craftsmen. Every suit is handmade in the UK.

Stowers Bespoke, 13 Savile Row, London W1 (020 7287 3080; stowersbespoke.com)
Photograph: Bill Davila /Rex Features
Gallery A-Z fashion: Yang Du
Yang Du

This young Chinese designer, with her vibrant colour palette and crazy aesthetic, already has a cult following in Japan. Yang Du, who graduated from Central Saint Martins last summer, showed jumbo faux-fur coats in grass green and knitted pork-chop cushions for her graduate collection. She's debuting at London Fashion Week.
Photograph: PR
Gallery A-Z fashion: Zambesi turns 30
Zambesi turns 30

New Zealand's best-loved fashion label has designed a range which highlights the core values of the cool and directional brand. Called '79 (the year it was established), the collection features sporty military-inspired pieces such as army surplus parkas and fitted trousers.

Stocked at Merchant Archive (020 8969 6470)
Photograph: PR
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