The upper stretches of the East Allen river are bordered by a series of parallel fields. The farmer has been spreading muck, and the pickings are rich for waders come back to breed in the North Pennine uplands.
Though winter clings on up here – snow still lies in the mined hollows and tucks of the land – the air ripples with sound. I count more than 100 lapwings, some 80 curlews, and 70 golden plovers. This is an uplifting time to walk here, thrilling to the exuberance of wing beats and bird cries.
The wind is fierce and my hands are numb around the binoculars. Cloud shadows rush across the fields, then climb the fell on the far side of the valley. Starlings take to the air, clumping together before spilling apart, then regrouping. The lapwings have the local name of peesweep, that uplifting second syllable so well imitated in Northumbrian dialect. They probe the turf for insects and worms, flashing white from their rumps as they tip forward, feathers and crests buffeted by the gusts. The males, emerald-backed with smart black bibs, are resplendent in their jackets like toffs in evening wear. They wheel into the air with sweet cries, wings signalling black and white in semaphore.
Just above Coatenhill reservoir, a party of pink-footed geese are gathered. Some are feeding, others snuggle down with heads under their wings or plumply waddle until a fight breaks out. An aggressive goose plunges forwards, neck lowered and stretched out, pink beak scissored open.
Then a group of bright-jacketed walkers stride along and up go the golden plovers, wings flickering white-gold, while the geese trundle forward, chests out, looking affronted before breaking into a clamorous takeoff.
On the reservoir a single Canada goose mooches about on the ruffled water. A tufted duck pops on to the surface after a dive. A large group of oystercatchers and curlews stands stoically with backs to the wind.
The valley is full of life again after months of quiet, as curlews glide and skim the fields, making my heart lift with their joyful bubbling.
