Blink or you'll miss it! Tucked away, at the top of Thong Lor 17, next door to the Family Mart, in what looks like a small Chinese shophouse is the latest branch of Somtum Der. Opened in March, it's the first branch in Bangkok after the original Somtum Der opened in Sala Daeng in 2012.
But co-owner and founder Thanaruek "Eh" Laoraowirodge has been busy after the success of Somtum Der. He has since opened the restaurant in New York, Ho Chi Minh and Tokyo. "I realised that I should also develop the Somtum Der brand in my hometown to make it stronger, while expanding internationally.
"Thong Lor is a strategic location for Somtum Der and it fits our clientele -- local Thais and expats. After seven years, we wanted to introduce an updated look. Somtum Der Thong Lor is our flagship and a showcase branch to introduce the current Somtum Der concept to the world."
Modern Isan is how I would describe the interiors, which are in tune with other Somtum Der branches, all designed by Bundit Kityaowasong of Studio Bun.
The menu
Once inside, the restaurant is spacious, especially past the som tum making counter. A whiff of pla ra engulfs the air and you know you're in for a taste of the real thing.
Unknown to many, known to some is the fun fact that Thailand is home to not just one type of som tum, but many. Most depend on the region they come from, which also, to an extent, depends on the spiciness of the dish. That too is mostly determined by "one, two or three chillies".
Since I was feeling rather brave, I decided to start off with the Isan style -- Tum muo (B85). Raw papaya salad with fermented fish aka pla ra mixed with moo yor and naem, made with two chillies. Despite not being a fan of pla ra, I enjoyed the som tum. The salad had just the right amount of fermented fish, which assured the smell of it and did not leave behind a lingering taste in the mouth. The fine rice noodles added to it took away from the heat. A tiny, tiny bit.
Moving to the Central Plains, the Tum kor moo yang (B95) is for those who can't handle the spiciness of the Northeast. This papaya salad is mixed with grilled pork neck and is not as pungent as the Isan style.
It is to remember that though I am listing a few dishes, they are all normally eaten together -- a bit of this and a bit of that. Of course, with small balls of sticky rice, which come in a choice of white and brown (B20).
The house special grilled marinated pork or Moo rong hai der (B95), is a Somtum Der classic and no meal here, no matter where in the world, can do without. Though if you think, everything is too pork heavy, they also do a beef version (B110). Deep fried duck beak or Pak ped tod (B80) is one of my fav Isan foods, having eaten them at many an office som tum party. The beak was fried to a crisp while still lending a good chew. Not a texture for everyone, but I do dare you to try if you haven't already.
Sa poak gai tod der. Sofie Lisby
Of course, fried or grilled chicken is also a must for an Isan meal and the Sa poak gai tod der (B90) is a good choice. Der styled deep fried chicken thigh is served with the usual Isan dipping sauce, which I found a tad too salty, but came topped with lots of fried garlic. It's no wonder The Huffington Post published the recipe for this. Yum!
For lovers of the sea, there is the herbaceous Goi goong (B110), a delightful mix of soft boiled prawns with fresh herbs and minced roasted rice. Though this dish is traditionally served with raw prawns (not to be confused with the Goong chae nam pla (B125)), I much prefer the soft boiled version.
No Isan meal is complete without a soup, and I highly recommend the Tom klong pla dook yang (B110). A heady mix of local Isan herbs in a broth that has a rather generous portion of catfish, it is the perfect Thai version of "chicken soup for the soul". The catfish is lightly grilled before being added to the soup, to make sure it retains its supple flesh and doesn't fall apart.
Since your tongue and mouth will be on fire after all this heat, the desserts at Somtum Der make sure to cool them down. Try the Thai-style ice kajang (B60), which is shaved ice, sliced bread and Hale's Blue Boy syrup topped with condensed milk. If you prefer a more traditional dessert, go for the Taro in condensed coconut milk (B60).
If that doesn't do the trick, there are the other ways to cool down -- the house blends of rosella, lemongrass, chrysanthemum and green Thai herb juice (B45), along with a page full of alcoholic drinks will ensure your fiery tongue gets a cold splash.
Tum kor moo yang. Sofie Lisby
Insider's tip
Executive chef for all the branches worldwide and co-founder Kornthanut Thongnum, who was born in Sakon Nakhon but grew up in Isan, makes sure standards and authenticity are maintained at all branches. Keen observers may notice the five and 10 baht price difference between here and the Sala Daeng branch, which are subject to 10% service and 7% VAT. If you're not a fan of the pla ra "fragrance" sit upstairs, which has booths. The tables, however, could have been made a tad broader to accommodate all the deliciousness. For residents of the North needing a Somtum Der fix, Chiang Mai will be getting its own branch next year.
Value & verdict
Seeing as authenticity is the key focus, Somtum Der excels at it, while still catering to the modern palate. In a city, which is so overrun with gimmicks instead of good wholesome food, this is a refreshing change. Of course, one could argue that the same authenticity can be bought at one of the many street carts in Bangkok. But, dining on Thong Lor in air-conditioned comfort at these prices… nothing beats it! g
Somtum Der
NORTHEASTERN THAI 351/2 Sukhumvit 55 Soi Thong Lor Open: 11am-2.30pm, 4.30-10.30pm Call 02-046-4904Visit www.somtumder.com
