It helps to have a strong neck in Barcelona as looking upward seems to be a passionate pastime. If you are not looking up, then you are missing some of the most fantastical architecture in the world. First and foremost are Gaudi's twisting and turning chimneys atop the private home, Casa Batllo, and his apartment complex, La Pedrera, or the impossibly delicate and towering spires of his religious masterpiece Sagrada Familia. As you strain your neck to view them and the magical edifices they cap, your mouth automatically falls open in reverence of the sheer originality of late 19th century architect Antoni Gaudi i Cornet's genius.
Gaudi was a son of Barcelona, a savvy city by the sea blessed with youthful exuberance and Catalan pride. (Barcelona is the capital of the autonomous region of Catalonia in northeast Spain). His legacy and that of Picasso's, Miro's and Dali's are evident in museums, homes and hotels that pay homage to the artists that, if not all born there, at least spent formative years there.
They all mingled at one time or another at the Majestic Hotel and Spa, on the wide and gracious boulevard Passeig de Gracia in the city's center. The Majestic opened its doors in 1908 and soon became the favored hotel of aristocrats, artists and writers including Hemingway, and entertainers such as Josephine Baker. In 2013, the third-generation Soldevila-Casals owner family spent 30 million euros in creating a stunning renovation. The legendary hotel has since been inducted into the distinguished club of The Leading Hotels of the World.
This past July, I spent two luxurious days and nights at the Majestic. My two-room suite, all dressed in sophisticated materials in shades of white, beige and brown, greeted me along with a bottle of fine wine and a box of Catalan cookies. Through high, arched windows opening onto two separate Juliet balconies, I peeked into private roof-top gardens of elegant homes across the boulevard, and bustling activity on the grand Gracia five stories below. Quiet is a luxury, at least for me, and I was grateful to find that once the windows were closed, the suite was completely sound proofed, which allowed my jet-lagged body a deep and peaceful sleep.
A great deal of thought and good taste are evident in the 1,000-piece art collection displayed throughout the hotel. In fact, the Majestic has been referred to as the "Hotel of the Arts." Classic and contemporary works are given pride of place in public areas and private rooms. They are not just there to cover an empty wall. Impressive.
Impressive, also, is the fact that the Majestic has become the first hotel in Spain to offer rooms specially designed for guests with severe disabilities: an overhead lift above the bed to allow guests easier access to the bed, as well as adapted bath and shower areas.
Michelin-star chef Nandu Jubany masterfully heads up three gourmet restaurants including the Majestic Breakfast Experience considered to be the best breakfast in Barcelona. I might add that it's perhaps one of the best breakfasts in my eating career. It was a feast to behold and I beheld a great deal of it: Spanish cheeses I had never heard of, let alone tasted; Iberian cold and smoked meats; a staggering array of breads, biscuits, delicate sweets; gourmet yogurts; bite-sized sandwiches; in-season fruits; an egg and omelette station with various riffs on pancakes and waffles. International guests mingled with locals in either the inside restaurant or the outside garden area.
A few of those guests sung the praises of the award-winning spa. Unfortunately, I didn't do a spa day, but did visit La Dolce Vitae on Majestic's roof-top terrace near the spa. What a view! Overlooking the entire city all the way to the sea. Barcelona's iconic architecture on display day and night. Beside the small swimming pool with its adjacent solarium, the cozy lounge areas provide perfect perches for viewing the scene while dining on Jubany's truly original menu. It's a testament to his creativity that I ate there twice. I can still taste those parmesan oreos.
Another roof-top bar beckoned me across town. This time it crowned the chicly modern, 4-year-old Mercer Hotel _ minimalism at its best. Before I even unpacked for my two-night stay, I sought out the roof terrace. With Billie Holiday singing her heart out, I sipped my strawberry, yogurt and basil iced-drink, while checking out this perfect oasis. A narrow lap pool was surrounded by huge clay pots filled with grasses; crisp, soft grey loungers rested on the fawn-colored natural wood floor; the remains of an ancient Roman wall abutted one side of the terrace and all of it overlooked the open-aired central atrium four levels below.
The Mercer Hotel has 28 rooms. It has sass and class. It sits on a site once ruled by Romans, on a narrow street in the center of the revitalized Gothic Quarter of Barcelona: labyrinthine streets open up to charming squares with boutique shops, tapas bistros, markets and medieval buildings. (By the way, if you aren't careful you might miss the discreet entrance of the Mercer, so I suggest you download its website map before you check in.)
Once inside the 5-star boutique hotel, an atmosphere of edgy sophistication reigns. Part of it comes from the young, smart staff; partly due to the playful, beautifully crafted furniture and wall treatments. A mirror of mirror shards hangs on one wall, while a vast slab of natural wood acts as a table along another wall. On the left of the entrance, a heavily draped, soothing room houses the sparse reception area highlighted with imaginative lighting. Whimsical art is the backdrop to the Le Bouchon, where a medley of tapas and other local specialities are served. Toward the back of the hotel, the cocktail lounge offers innumerable concoctions, while a few steps above a library, with comfy sofas, artfully displays a curated collection of books.
Now for my room. Perhaps the most refreshing space of all. The high-beamed ceiling corners an ancient wall on one side and gives way to floor-to-ceiling sliding doors on another. Beyond those doors is a small patio with a massive vertical garden rising three stories up toward the open sky. I tried to count the varieties of plants without success, but the entire effect was like a breath of fresh air that enhanced my stay. A free-standing wall separates the sleekly designed bathroom with its Molton Brown products and terry towel robes. Pale oak floors, exclusive designer furniture and one of the most comfortable beds in the business rounded out the compact space with style.
In the morning, several round tables in the sun-drenched central atrium invite you to breakfast. (As you may have gathered from my Majestic Hotel and Spa description, I REALLY like breakfasts). The Mercer didn't disappoint. It's an aesthete's dream _ exquisite linens, glassware and china complemented by a spray of delicate fresh flowers. Staff offered food from both the menu and the small but richly varied buffet. Fresh squeezed juices, petite sandwiches, Spanish omelettes, homemade bread, jams and cereals and yogurts, cured meats and a wide variety of cheeses.
Although I didn't dine at the Mercer, I noticed, as I was returning to my room one evening, that the atrium was filled to capacity during a late-night candlelight dinner. No doubt I missed out on a memorable meal. Next time.
What a treat to have tasted two very different but equally superb hotels in a city of such beauty, history and cultural diversity, a city worth visiting and looking up to.
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