John L. Paul
KOCHI
The Kadavumbhagam Synagogue that is tucked inside Ernakulam market, whose original structure is said to date back to the 12th century, has interesting tales to narrate of its last renovation work.
The 800-year-old structure that was rebuilt in the 17th century, was last renovated in 2018, said Elias Josephai, 65, managing trustee of the synagogue, which is one among the six Jewish places of worship in Kerala.
The historic synagogue still commands attention even as much of the adjacent Ernakulam wholesale market is being demolished, to make way for a modern structure. A plant nursery named Cochin Blossoms adorns its courtyard. Rooms that lead to the synagogue which functioned as a school having classes up to fourth standard, now houses an aquarium. Rulers of the erstwhile Kochi kingdom are said to have provided aid to the school till 1948.
Help from unexpected quarters
“Miracles kept happening during the renovation process, during which time chandeliers, marble tablets and many other items were added to enliven the place of worship. The chandeliers costing ₹2.40 lakh were sponsored by Swami Hariprasad of Vishnumohan Foundation, Chennai. He is a member of the famous Paliath family at Chendamangalam (a region where excavation is under way to unearth more historical evidence on the ancient port of Muziris. The Muziris region spread in the Ernakulam-Thrissur border is home to two synagogues – at North Paravur and Chendamangalam),” Mr. Josephai said.
Even more interesting is the fact that the chandeliers were supplied by a Muslim trader from Tirur, who quoted the least amount from among three suppliers, and won the bid. “He supplied the unique antique-looking chandeliers, since I insisted on them, rather than Chinese-made chandeliers which would have looked even more beautiful,” he said.
A whole lot of other colourful lamps and a tablet wherein the 10 Commandments have been inscribed, were sponsored by Jonathan, a Christian from Madurai, who was employed in East Asia. The living monument has been further embellished by wall curtains stitched by Taha Ibrahim, a Muslim aide of Sarah Cohen, who died in 2019 aged 96, and had an embroidery shop on Synagogue Lane in Mattancherry.
Mr. Josephai, who preferred to stay back in Kochi rather than migrate to Israel as part of ‘Aliyah’ - the immigration of Jews to Israel from the diaspora - took pains to explain elements of art works that adorned the synagogue’s interiors. Occupying the pride of place among pomegranates, figs and grapes, all of which abound in Israel, was mango - India’s national fruit.
The carpet flooring was replaced with colourful hand-made tiles brought from Athamkudi, Chettinad, in Tamil Nadu, in 2017.
