Gilbert Gatali couldn’t be happier with the success of KZ Noir, his Rwandan coffee company. But profits are only part of what drives him. As the son of Rwandan refugees, Gatali, who was born in Kenya and raised in Toronto, has a personal stake in aiding Rwanda’s economic recovery. “As a refugee, it means so much to return,” he said. “I’m extremely lucky to be in a position to help Rwandans see themselves and their country in a positive light.”
One of KZ Noir’s subsidiaries, Karengera Coffee Company, and the smallholder farms that supply it, became the first coffee group in Rwanda to achieve Rainforest Alliance certification in 2013. Gatali, who is KZ Noir’s managing director, also operates a coffee shop in Kigali. We sat down with Gatali to discuss subjects close to his heart: coffee, sustainability, and Rwanda.
Your family is Rwandan, but you grew up in Kenya and Canada. What does it mean to be able to return to Rwanda and operate a successful company?
As a refugee, when you grow up in a family that has experienced a lot of atrocities, it means so much to return, but you also feel guilty: why didn’t I have to go through that? I’m extremely lucky to be able to come back and be an agent of positive change. People are going to school because of this coffee; people are getting good homes because of it. There is nothing more exciting than to see someone who was a coffee sorter at a washing station a few years ago and is now a cupper. My cafe hired a barista who today is competing in barista championships. Six years ago this woman had never even heard of the word “barista”! To see lives change because of coffee is a fantastic experience. I couldn’t ask for anything better.
What changes have you witnessed on the ground since KZ Noir subsidiary Karengera Coffee Company achieved Rainforest Alliance certification in 2013?
We’re seeing farmers who have good housing and are engaging in sustainable practices. They now know that waste water has to be treated before being released back into streams and rivers, or it will hurt local communities. They’re separating garbage and learning what’s disposable and what’s not. Farmers are learning from each other. They now say, “Oh, I have to wear gloves to do that? Why?” We also just have a much happier staff who know the company cares about them, and the workers now know their rights.
Which KZ Noir accomplishments make you most proud?
The fact that we’ve been in business for four years is a great accomplishment in itself, given how challenging the coffee business can be. More directly, I think the fact that we’re still working with the farmers we’ve worked with from the beginning, while also increasing the number of new farmers, is a great accomplishment. There are other coffee operations, but the farmers are choosing to work with us.
What do you think of the recent boom in sustainable coffee in Rwanda?
I think it’s great! We were the first, but the fact that other companies want to pursue sustainable coffee in Rwanda is a good thing. The more we can get people to think about sustainable coffee, the better off we all will be in the end.
Why is coffee from Rwanda special?
We just have lots of love and passion for it. I also think that because it’s mostly smallholder farmers with very small trees, farmers can give a lot more care to the farm, and then the coffee washing station isn’t overwhelmed by an enormous quantity. Folks here are able to take a little bit more time for quality, as opposed to a big chain that just presses buttons.
Learn more about the Rainforest Alliance’s work to protect lives, lands and livelihoods around the world.
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