'This is absolutely six stars," I told my dining companion during a dinner at Chef's Table.
It was almost impossible not to be impressed by what the evening was offering. We were 250m above the ground surrounded by a glittering city skyline. The meal was prepared by top-rated chefs. Setting was unrivalled with every single detail being either handpicked from the world's best sources or custom-made to complement the exceptional gastronomic experience. And service was one to always be remembered.
I couldn't help but felt the rush to spread the news to the world that Bangkok's fine dining scene has reached another great milestone.
Opened last Friday, the 46-seat Chef's Table is the newest addition of Tower Club, a vertical complex of restaurants and bars at Lebua Bangkok hotel.
Not only is it a dazzling product of a 175 million baht investment, it is also the first and only restaurant in Thailand to permanently feature a hands-on three Michelin-starred chef.
Directing the Chef's Table kitchen is Vincent Thierry, the globally-celebrated French chef who from 2005-2011 opened and led Caprice at Four Seasons Hong Kong to its three-star glory.
Thierry has been working with Lebua's team to develop the concept and menu since the day Chef's Table was still a sketch on paper.
His highly rated contemporary French cuisine is presented here through a degustation menu prepared with imported world-class ingredients from France as well as from Thailand. For many months prior to restaurant's opening, the French cooking master and his team had also travelled the country to seek the best local produce to give the menu a balance of geographical flair. And thus approximately 60% of the ingredients come from local sources.
Normandy sole fillet with black olive, artichoke, cockles and marjoram sauce.
To give the fine dining affair a fun and interactive touch, the kitchen manned by an international team of six chefs is staged at the centre of the restaurant. The all-open cooking isle was designed to provide visual thrills that hid behind engineering finesse. For example, though a French classic style of gas range cooking is used, there's no smoke or fumes or even airborne smell and heat coming out to the air as all are removed by state-of-the-art ventilation and filtration system.
The meal here starts with a series of amuse bouche. That night it featured the likes of Parmesan cracker with French green beans and tarragon mousse; and Spanish carabineros prawn with quail yolk on rice cracker. Both were delicious.
A complimentary house-made bread accompanied by a generous offering of super silky salted butter, made in house with local organic cream from Khao Yai, follows. Let me warn you: each bite will send you to a sinful paradise.
The degustation menu -- which I'd rather call a seventh-heaven experience for the eyes, taste buds and mind -- comes in seven courses and costs 7,900 baht per person.
Of it you'll find a number of chef Thierry's signature dishes including king crab tiramisu with marinated tandoori fruit and mascarpone cream.
I chose the dish over the other first course option (flat oyster with caviar imperial de Solongne and green apple jelly) and was superbly satisfied by the refreshing taste this marriage of crab and masala-spiced fruit had to offer.
Another of the chef's much-treasured signatures: crayfish and sweetbread with Provencal ravioli in light shellfish emulsion, came next. Bathing in a slightly-smoky frothy bisque were supple, firm and naturally sweet crustaceans, a tasty vegetable dumpling and a veal sweetbread pan-fried to lend the delicate offal meat a slightly browned crust.
The blissful gourmet evening continued gracefully with a dish of foie gras, citrus mosaic and fondant carrot. The duck liver was perfectly pan-seared to showcase a velvety yet firm centre inside a super tight, almost-ready-to-pop casing, all complemented brilliantly by the citrusy sweet and fragrant sauce.
Normandy sole with black olive, artichoke, cockles and marjoram sauce represented the fourth course. An extraordinary springy and glossy fillet of the delicious French fish was matched with pan-fried stuffed artichoke while the black olive tapenade and arugula microgreen garnish were giving the mild-tasting dish a briny and mustardy finish.
Chef Thierry presents famous French Challan duck in a duo-styled dish of roasted duck breast with beetroot, celery and ginger sauce and a warm bowl of leg parmentier on the side. Both impeccably proved the chef's star-studded recognition.
Cheese tray selection on the day that I visited includes Comte, Roquefort and monastery cheeses.
After a pre-dessert, which is another complimentary treat to the evening, guests get to choose their preferred choice of a sweet ending.
My lemon and vanilla meringue sphere with pistachio ice cream tasted superb as did my friend's dark chocolate mousse with soft biscuit, caramelised pecan nut praline and whiskey ice cream.
Roasted Challans duck breast with beetroot, celery and ginger sauce.
Dinner wraps up with a choice of tea or coffee -- the latter is fresh-brewed from the astronomically-priced 18 carat gold coffee machine. Accompanying the hot drink that night was a selection of petit fours and a luscious slice of courtesy chocolate tart.
The menu price also includes a glass of champagne from the adjacent Pink Bar. The rose-gold hued champagne bar is a go-to spot for pre-dinner drinks or late night hangouts. Those who shun alcohol may settle on a mocktail. For that, Pink Daisy would be my recommendation.
Wine pairing packages are available at 3,900 baht per person, or 6,500 baht per person for a premium selection.
The restaurant is passionately driven by its exclusive team of chefs, managers, sommeliers, mixologists and front-of-the-house staff from various countries including Australia, Canada, France, Philippines, Spain, Thailand and the UK.
Clientele (some have been calling to book the tables even before the restaurant's opening) is a mix of local epicures and admirers of chef Thierry's cuisine from all over the globe.
Despite the restaurant's flamboyant detail-orientated setting and heartfelt service that continuously wowed us during the meal, at the end of the day, it's the food that should matter most. And that night the food proved absolutely the star.
