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Los Angeles Times
Los Angeles Times
Health
Ben Mims

A pumpkin spice treat you won't be embarrassed to love

The idea of another pumpkin loaf either makes you excited or makes your eyes roll out of your head. If you're in the latter camp, I implore you to give my iteration a shot.

Because I like the idea of pumpkin spice things but not their execution, I developed this loaf to be about all the good qualities of the flavor _ cloying lattes notwithstanding. I take real pumpkin and roast it with olive oil, salt and pepper to give the puree an umami edge.

The loaf gets a crown of salty bread crumbs, perfumed with the usual "spice" suspects; it's the ideal contrast to the tender loaf cake. Freshly ground spices do make a difference, but use the pre-ground kind if that's what you have (but please don't use pre-ground nutmeg; the flavor is acrid and bitter).

It's a lightly sweet, kinda savory loaf, at home with butter slathered over the side with a drizzle of honey or with a thwack of ricotta and some chopped thyme. Best part: It's the type of "PSL" treat where the spices accent the pumpkin flavor, not overwhelm it.

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