It has been quite a while since the last time I visited Sai Thong. Recently, as I noticed that certain photographs have been used in the Bangkok Post too often, I knew it's time to return to this national park of Chaiyaphum province once again.
Photos: Kajondej Thongmee
Like its more famous neighbour Pa Hin Ngam -- which also sits atop Khao Phang Hoey, the edge of the Korat Plateau that separates Chaiyaphum from Lop Buri on the lower ground to the west -- Sai Thong is known for a plant that belongs to the ginger family, bua sawan, which adorns the park's forest with its charming pink bracts every year from July to the end of August. Bua sawan (Curcuma alismatifolia) is often referred to as Siam tulip or krachieo. The latter, which is widely used in Chaiyaphum's tourism campaigns, is actually a broad term that covers several species of Curcuma. Anyway, more important to me than what people call it was the fact that I needed new stock shots of this plant which represents the beauty of the rainy season.
On the recent visit to Sai Thong, my friends and I travelled to the bua sawan fields via Ban Sap Mongkhon instead of the park's headquarters further east. This access road has less traffic than the main one so it's safer for cycling. We started our ride after paying the park's entrance fee at the checkpoint. From there to our destination, it's 5km of ascending road. With the mild sun, thanks to the looming rain clouds, the conditions were perfect for bad climbers like us to go for some real exercise.
The slopes were mostly mild, except for certain sections where we needed to zigzag our way up imaginary switchbacks. As we were about to reach the top, rain poured down in celebration of our rare success. We were soaked both with the heavenly water and joy. For once, we didn't cheat and haul our bikes up in the service truck like we usually do when going uphill.
After the rain had died down, we set up camp and took some rest. The next morning, after a quick breakfast we walked to the different bua sawan fields. Since the paths are off-limits to all kinds of vehicles, including bicycles, our plan was to have the service truck bring our rigs down the mountain and up again via the other access road to meet us at the other end of the trail so we don't have to walk back.
The 2km hike took us almost two hours because we constantly stopped to take photos of the bua sawan and the other plants and insects we found along the way. As always, at Pha Ham Hot (the penis-shrinker cliff), one of Sai Thong's most popular sites, there was a line of visitors waiting for their turns to pose for pictures on a slab of rock that juts precariously out of the high cliff. As always, too, I could not gather enough courage to get myself near that rock.
Not far from Pha Ham Hot, we finally reached the car park where our service truck was waiting. Another mission accomplished. Next time you find news about bua sawan in the Bangkok Post, you won't see the same old pictures.
Well, see you here again soon. Until then, if you have questions, news or biking insights you wish to share, please feel free to send an email to pongpetm@bangkokpost.co.th or go to Freewheel Bangkok community page on Facebook.
Pongpet Mekloy is the Bangkok Post's travel editor and a mountain bike freak.
Sai Thong National Park, Chaiyaphum
GPS co-ordinates: 15°52'54.17" N 101°27'27.14" E
Trail condition: Mostly paved road.
Distance: 5km of biking and 2km of hiking.
Getting there: From Bangkok, drive to Saraburi and go north to Chai Badan, then take Highway 205 to Lam Sonthi and Thep Sathit where you'll find Highway 2354 on the left-hand side. Yes, it's the road to Pa Hin Ngam National Park, but drive past the famous park further north and follow the signs to Sai Thong National Park. You'll run into a few intersections along the way, but there are always direction signs, so there's no way you can get lost. After about 38km you'll emerge at Highway 225.
The next sign tells you to turn right and take the normal route to Sai Thong, but this time you'll have to be stubborn and turn left toward Ban Sap Mongkhon instead. The optional access road to the park is less than 1km away on the other side of the road. The park's checkpoint is 3km up the side road.
Parking: There's plenty of space.
Food & drinks: Food shacks can be found at the end of both access roads.
Accommodation: Camping is the only choice at the site. Park lodgings are available near the park headquarters which can be reached via the other access road. You need to book well in advance.
Local contact: Visit the Facebook page SaithongOfficial or call 089-282-3437.
