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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Gina Jackson

A Londoner's guide to Hong Kong: from superb street food to hidden temples

Its unrivalled culinary scene, dynamic landscape, and relentless energy are just some of the reasons why Hong Kong consistently tops most travellers’ bucket lists. This is a city of contrasts, where East meets West, and ancient traditions seamlessly blend with modernity: sleek skyscrapers teeter over ramshackle market stalls, and bamboo scaffolding props up glossy designer boutiques.

There's something for everyone here, whether you're seeking out hidden temples, bartering at street markets, or feasting at Michelin-starred restaurants.

For Gina Jackson, who has visited annually since childhood and has family ties to the city, the city holds a special place as a second home: making her the perfect person to share insider knowledge on the best places to shop, sleep and eat.

Where to shop

(Getty Images for Hong Kong Tourism Board)

Hong Kong's luxury shopping scene is a dazzling mix of international brands and local designers, with stylish boutiques and shopping malls straddling Central, Tsim Sha Tsui, and Causeway Bay. For chic Chinese womenswear with a modern twist, visit Sau Lee, a homegrown label where you can browse through elegant cheong sam and evening gowns.

For a mix of international and local brands, visit Lane Crawford, one of the city’s most iconic department stores, where you’ll find a curated selection of luxury fashion, beauty, and homeware. Meanwhile, the flashy designer flagships along Queen’s Road Central easily put Bond Street and New York’s Fifth Avenue to shame.

Where to eat and drink

(Image by carloyuen from Pixabay)

Hong Kong’s culinary scene is inexhaustible and endlessly diverse, spanning everything from street vendors to top-notch dining. After slurping up wonton noodles and cheung fun at roadside stalls, it’s time to dial it up a notch at some of the city’s more glitzy addresses. For a traditional dim sum lunch, bring the whole gang to local favourite China Tang, or for modern take on regional Chinese fare, dine at swanky Mott 32.

Cantonese cuisine isn’t the only food on offer here, though. For explemary Indian dining, make sure to snag a table at Leela, helmed by acclaimed chef Manav Tuli and backed by Jia Group, (the hospitality brand behind some of the city’s most famed restaurants). The space is a sleek remodelling of Jodhpur’s historic palaces, with a menu that offers a modern riff on traditional Indian favourites: tuck into warming curries, flakey rotis, and the restaurant’s signature bone marrow biryani. Follow this up with a tipple at Roman-inspired cocktail lounge Bar Leone - recently named the best bar in Asia.

The next morning, head to Staunton Street in Central for your pastry fix, where two of Hong Kong’s most popular artisan bakeries jostle for attention. Chow down on ridiculously flakey viennoiserie at Bakehouse before hopping over the road to Vission for their best-selling matcha mochi Danish.

Where to stay

(The Upper House)

For a sky-high sleepover above the clouds, bed down at The Upper House, a slice of serenity wedged between Admiralty and Wan Chai. From here, you’ll be close to all of the action (the hotel is placed directly right above Pacific Place, one of the city’s swishest shopping malls, and is just a few minutes’ drive from Central), yet feel a world away from the bustle below.

Sweep up to the discreet, grey facade and a small army of suited-up valets will immediately swoop you upstairs for in-suite check-in. Designed by award-winning Hong Kong hotshot André Fu, each space here is a masterclass in clean, cutting-edge design. Smooth stone surfaces, touchy-feely fabrics, and wraparound glass windows are a given in each bedroom, with even entry-level rooms among the largest in the city. Rooms are decked out in a soothing palette of creams and greys, minibars are to be raided (and are restocked with complimentary snacks each day), and there’s lots of clever tech sprinkled throughout: Dyson hairdryers, huge flat-screen TVs, and controls next to your pillow for the lighting and curtains. Bedrooms spill into just-as-spacious ensuites, where huge tubs large enough for two are plonked in front of the glossy, floor-to-ceiling windows, guaranteeing unparalleled vistas over the twinkling Kowloon harbour or skyscraper-studded hills beyond.

At breakfast, zoom up to the 49th floor, where you’ll rub shoulders with Hong Kong’s A-List crowd at all-day Mediterranean restaurant Salisterra. Elegant tasting menus mostly champion Italian dishes, but there are still plenty of local touches: expect dim sum breakfasts, and comforting Hong Kong classics served throughout the day, from chicken rice to congee. Also on site is a boutique gym, yoga room, and clutch of lounges to kick back in - there’s no spa, but in-room massages can be arranged.

Aside from the standout design, it’s the razor-sharp service where the hotel truly shines. Thoughtful welcome gifts are the norm, as is uber-personalised service during your stay, and a guest experience team who can secure the most sought-after tables in town (rooms start at £527 a night).

What to do

(Hong Kong Tourism Board)

For a dose of culture, a visit to Kowloon’s spectacular M+ museum is a must. This billion-dollar complex showcases modern art, design, and architecture through a series of evolving exhibitions. Afterwards, spend your evening bartering with local vendors at Mongkok’s vibrant night markets, where you can sample local street food and stock up on souvenirs.

If you’re looking to escape the city’s hustle, head out on one of Hong Kong’s famous hiking trails. For showstopping vistas over the skyline, The Peak should be your first port of call; you can take the funicular up to the top if you prefer a more leisurely approach - alternatively, the walk downhill is much more doable. Or take the ferry over to one of Hong Kong's many island communities: you’ll catch a glimpse of local life away from the urban rush on Lamma Island or Cheung Chau Island.

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