An Ottawa dweller my entire life, of course I’m biased when I say that it is truly one of the most beautiful and diverse places in the country. But spend a little time getting to know the nation’s capital, and I hope you too will see why I love this “best of both worlds” city. It’s friendly with ample peaceful green space, but also home to an energetic downtown core.
I suggest taking time to explore a few of Ottawa’s most beloved areas, each possessing choice food spots, cafes, nightlife and cultural hotspots.
Byward Market
Byward Market is Canada’s oldest and largest public market. Stalls of fresh local produce and hand-crafted goods adorn the streets in the warmer seasons while galleries and specialty shops, open year-round, are scattered across the neighbourhood. Byward Fruit Market is a long-cherished institution thanks to its colourful selection of local produce such as truffles and artisan jams. Local chefs and in-the-know foodies head to Sasloves Meat Market for the widest selection of meat in the city, including a selection of Ottawa-raised meat. Have a bite and a pint at the retro-style Zak’s Diner, hit up legendary nightclub Zaphod’s Beeblebrox, and end at Sasha’s Chip Wagon for a poutine, the preferred street food of Canadians everywhere. Planet Coffee, tucked in a pretty courtyard, offers a quiet refuge from the bustle of the core, while French bakery, Moulin de Provence, is an excellent lunch destination. La Petite Mort, an eclectic contemporary art gallery, is another worthwhile stop in the market.
Golden Triangle
The so-called Golden Triangle in central Ottawa is trendy and diverse with plenty to fill a day. The Rideau Canal, a winter favourite, can be found here, as well as Canada’s first outdoor pedestrian mall, Sparks Street. A foodie hot spot, there are dining picks aplenty too. Clover Food is a cute restaurant on Bank Street that is a firm supporter of local farmers and suppliers. The charcuterie board, featuring Canadian signature maple mustard, and the bucatini pasta with sausage and kale are not to be missed. Bread & Sons Bakery sells artisan breads and nutritious daily soups, salads, and a to-die-for roasted tofu mini quiche. Burgers n’ Fries Forever is redefining fast food with top quality produce and inventive flavour combinations while The Whalesbone specialises in sustainable oysters.
Hintonburg
Formerly considered slightly rough around the edges, Hintonburg is now a hipster mecca much like London’s Dalston and renowned for its stellar food scene. Italian-influenced Burnt Butter does delicious things with simple, seasonal ingredients; my go-to dish is the basil linguine with goat’s cheese, arrabbiata sauce, and burnt butter. Hintonburger has quickly solidified itself as one of the city’s best burger joints while tiny doughnut shop Suzy Q is a place of reverence to Ottawans, who line up patiently for the salty caramel and maple bacon doughnuts. Hintonburg Public House is one of the best spots in the city for a cocktail – try the Dirty bastard – while Holland’s Cake and Shake is an old-school bakery meets modern malt shop that specialises in adorable personal-sized layer cakes. Finally, Blumenstudio, an idyllic cafe meets flower shop, is perfect for a much needed time-out after scoping out the neighbourhood.
The Glebe
Every Ottawan’s dream neighbourhood, The Glebe is a charming area off the downtown core. From May until October, the neighbourhood is home to the fabulous Lansdowne Farmers Market, which is well worth a wander to stock up on local produce. Other notable stops are family-run Stella Luna Gelato Café for its artisanal gourmet gelato and Irene’s Pub for late-night classic munchies, such as spicy chicken wings, and live music. The neighbourhood is home to a number of chic vintage shops and quirky boutiques, such as the spice shop Cardamom and Cloves and The Papery, a beautiful store dedicated to specialty paper goods. The spring Great Glebe Garage Sale is infamous for its immense collection of awesome, secondhand scores.
City of culture
Of course, there’s more to Ottawa than its food. House of Targ is a fantastic live music venue to catch a local act and Union 613 is home to a secret speakeasy, accessible only by a hidden door bookshelf. Cultural attractions abound in Ottawa too: the Museum of Nature is a notable stop not only for its remarkable exhibits but for the legend that a ghost haunts the stately building. The National Art Gallery boasts a superb collection of Canadian and international art. I’m looking forward to checking out the visiting exhibition of celebrated Canadian artist, Alex Colville, this spring through summer. For performance and media art, peruse SAW Gallery, also renowned for its multipurpose performance venue, Club Saw. Check the calendar before your visit – many museums and galleries in the city feature free admission on Thursday evenings.
Having said all of that, my favourite aspect of Ottawa is the many lush, picturesque outdoor venues and alfresco happenings. To witness an annual summer tradition, head to Parliament Hill for the changing of the guard ceremony. This decades-old ritual takes place every morning and sees the old guard passing on the key to the Guard Room at Rideau Hall to the new guard. A more modern ritual sees Ottawa fitness enthusiasts congregate en masse to partake, many over their lunch break, in daily free outdoor yoga sessions, also taking place at Parliament Hill.
Only minutes from the Hill, you can soak in the generous Ottawa sun at Nepean Point. Between its secluded, grassy location and breathtaking panoramic view of the Ottawa River and Parliament buildings, it is one of my favourite picnic spots. Outside the downtown area, Strathcona is a park also ideal for a picnic or to dive into a new book. Originally a training site for soldiers preparing for the Boer war, it is unique among Ottawa’s numerous parks for its majestic architectural structures, which are as grand as they are unexpected.
There are many ways you can embrace the outdoors: you could go for a jog along the scenic Rideau Canal or sign up for a cycling tour. Try the innovative UrbanQuest, who’ll lead you on a theme-based adventure of your choice through the capital – the Quest in Time package is a neat one, navigating you through a series of historical landmarks downtown. It’s a fantastic way to discover this fascinating city.
To find out more about Canada and book your visit, go to keepexploring.com.au
Kelsey Sunstrum is a writer and blogger from Ottawa. She contributes to Apt613 and can be found tweeting at twitter.com/kelseysunstrum