Ketsurang, an archaeologist, miraculously travels back in time from the present day to the reign of the Ayutthaya Kingdom's King Narai the Great (1656-1688). She enjoys the traditional way of life and the beauty of many places in Ayutthaya and Lop Buri.
Video by Jetjaras Na Ranong and Pichaya Svasti
In Lop Buri, she visits the royal palace (Phra Narai Ratchaniwet), some temples, and the residence of senior official Chao Phraya Wichayen. This popular period TV series Bupphesanniwat (Love Destiny) has prompted many Thais to visit cultural heritage sites in Ayutthaya and Lop Buri where Ketsurang lives and visits. The Fine Arts Department recently hosted a study trip to Lop Buri's Phra Narai Ratchaniwet Palace, Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, Wat San Paolo, Phra Tamnak Thalay Chupson (Kraison Siharat Hall or Phrathinang Yen) and Ban Wichayen.
"I can say that Lop Buri is probably the only [Thai] city with clear evidence of continuous human settlement from the prehistoric to Rattanakosin periods," said Anandha Chuchoti, director-general of the Fine Arts Department.
To Anandha, a reliable theory says that King U Thong had governed Lop Buri before establishing Ayutthaya in 1350 given that there were a lot of influences in terms of religious art, beliefs, politics and national administration from Lop Buri upon Ayutthaya, such as Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat.
King U Thong later appointed his son Phra Ramesuan as ruler of Lop Buri, which was an important city (muang luk luang). However, the expansion of Ayutthaya's power to further areas caused other towns to become more significant, such as Phitsanulok, which later became the city of the viceroy. Lop Buri became less important as a fourth-grade satellite town (hua muang jattawa) although it remained rich in culture. Later during the reign of King Narai, the monarch revived and made Lop Buri, or Lawo, the second capital, which developed and flourished. Written documents by foreigners, such as French diplomat Simon de la Loubere, mention the royal palace, places and prosperity of Lop Buri.
According to Anandha, thanks to the TV series craze, the number of visitors to historic sites in Lop Buri, especially Wat San Paolo and Ban Wichayen, has increased sharply. In the past, popular destinations were Phra Kan Shrine, Phra Prang Samyot and Phra Narai Ratchaniwet Palace only.
"When we come to Lop Buri, we can see various historic sites ranging from Prang Khaek, Phra Prang Samyot and Phra Kan Shrine with the art influence of the ancient Khmer Empire to the Dvaravati Period's Wat Nakhon Kosa, and the Pre-Ayutthaya Period's Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, especially Phra Prang. This temple went through different ages and was greatly restored by Ayutthaya's King Maha Chakraphat. Good examples of those of the reign of King Narai are Phra Narai Ratchaniwet Palace, Wat San Paolo, the city moat and walls, Chai Chanasongkhram and Pratu Tha It fortresses, Pratu Chai Gate and Ban Wichayen, which has many remaining traces of the Ayutthaya Period's Western-style architecture," the director-general said.
Phuthorn Bhumadhon, a local historian, said Lop Buri is where people of different races, including Thais, Mon, Lao, Chinese and Vietnamese, live together and preserve their own traditions and dress culture. Lop Buri has both old and modern cultures and its heritage sites date to the Dvaravati to Rattanakosin periods.
According to him, Phra Narai Ratchaniwet Palace reflects the contacts between Lop Buri and the outside world as well as the use of technologies, such as tap water and water drainage systems, fortresses, canals and water management, for public interest.
Lop Buri also boasts many interesting attractions, including extinct volcanoes in Chai Badan district, Sap Langka Forest in Lam Sonthi and Chai Badan, the Sirindhorn White Champak Forest in Tha Luang district and tree fossils in Khok Charoen. Food enthusiasts must try fish dishes, local food like hor mok and curry and custard apple.
Lop Buri is 153km north of Bangkok. Travellers can get there by car, train, bus and van. The main route is Highway 1 past Saraburi.
