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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Gina Jackson

A laid-back guide to Sydney, Australia: what to eat, drink, see and do

Sydney, Australia’s east coast jewel, has sun-soaked beaches, a world-class restaurant scene, and chic boutiques in abundance.

Life moves at a leisurely pace: lean into the laid-back Australian lifestyle and do as the locals do, rising early to explore the hidden coves and coastal walks on your doorstep, before segwaying over to brunch in town.

Read more: Why Margaret River should be top of your Australia bucket list

There’s something for everyone here, whether you’re intent on hunting down the perfect flat white or catching waves on secluded shores: below.

Where to shop

(SIR the label)

Sydney’s swankiest boutiques tend to cluster in two distinct neigbourhoods: Paddington and Bondi. For loose linens and slinky dresses that will take you from day to night, head to Australian-born boutique SIR, which has stylish stores in both locations. Or visit St Agni, a brand which originates in Byron Bay — the breezy beachside town further up the east coast - for structured, neutral-paletted tailoring.

For both international and local brands, Incu in The Galeries is a go-to spot for its curated selection of men and womenswear: you’ll find a mix of emerging and established designers here, while thrifting lovers can rifle through vintage gems and secondhand luxury at SWOP.

Where to eat & drink

(Ester)

Over in Paddington, Saint Peter rules the culinary scene. This slick fine dining restaurant by chef Josh Niland is a bold celebration of all things fish. Dishes on the tasting menu, which changes daily, champion local fisheries, farms, and produce — the latter of which is proudly showcased table-side before each course arrives.

Nose-to-tail cooking takes form in clever, unexpected ways: slurp up delicate noodles fashioned from trout bone, and nibble charcuterie made from secondary fish cuts. Some dishes are more uncomplicated (think fresh sourdough that’s ripped up, dipped in olive brine, and paired with silken slices of mackerel) but the showstopping main course is a Jackson Pollock-esque explosion of colourful veg, paired with a sizzling, just-seared tuna steak. Even the sweets include a ‘fishy’ element: bone marrow fudge and caviar-topped caneles.

For more relaxed fare, bag a table at Ester, a celebrated Chippendale joint serving seasonal dishes (fermented potato bread topped with salmon roe and blood sausage sandwiches are two of the menu’s mainstays) in an industrial setting.

Meanwhile, new to the scene is chic Greek restaurant Olympus Dining, where you can tuck into platters of crudo and ridiculously flakey skanakopita pies — before live jazz and cocktails at local favourite Hubert.

Where to stay

(Capella)

For a city sleepover that’s close to all of the action, check into Capella Sydney, easily one of the most luxe addresses in town. Presiding over the heart of Sydney’s CBD, you’ll be a leisurely stroll away from Circular Quay, along with most major attractions in town, including the iconic Sydney Opera House and Royal Botanic Garden.

Bedrooms are on the spacious side - an entry-level room is twice the size of a suite you might find elsewhere - and kitted out with plenty of stylish touches. Soaring ceilings, emperor-size beds and touchy-feely furnishings are the name of the game: all set against shiny walnut finishes and creamy fabrics. Each room is topped off with lots of clever tech (Bose speakers, Dyson hairdryers, and 55-inch TVs plonked opposite your bed), along with an iPad next to your pillow for controlling the lighting and climate with a quick tap.

Between the super-sized bathtub and complimentary minibar, there’s plenty of excuse to stay holed up inside.

At breakfast, you’ll graze from a spread of fresh fruit and flakey pastries at the hotel’s brasserie, while chefs obligingly whip up Asian and Australian breakfast dishes on demand (think fresh omelettes and chicken congee).

During the day, hotel guests rub shoulders with locals at Aperture, the hotel’s all-day restaurant-come-bar, or hide away in the Living Room: this hushed, residents-only lounge is a signature Capella feature, where you can help yourself to snacks and drinks at all hours.

(Capella)

After mornings spent exploring the city, retreat to the sixth floor, where you’ll find the hotel’s standout spa housed in a former art gallery: this sun-soaked space glows with natural light, and a shimmering 20-metre indoor pool takes centre stage, framed by plump daybeds for lolling on.

After working up a sweat at the 24-hour gym, make a circuit of the vitality pool, sauna, and steam room. Meanwhile, inside a clutch of skylit treatment rooms, you can sink into pampering treatments formed in partnership with Australian cult pilates brand Fluidform: think full-body therapies ideal for toning, stretching, and soothing tired limbs.

Service is seamless across the board. The team is quick to learn guests’ names and preferences, while on-hand Capella Culturists are available for sharing insider tips and snagging restaurant reservations whenever you might need.

Rooms start at £375 a night. Book Capella Sydney here

What to do

Beach-hopping and surfing are the obvious go-tos, but it’s worth going venturing away from the hotspots to discover quieter parts of the coastline. Hop on the ferry from Circular Quay to Manly, one of the city’s coastal surburbs, which is home to surf-friendly beaches, along with a buzzy cafe scene.

Lean into the active Australian lifestyle by hiking from Bondi to Coogee (and back), before cooling off at one of the city’s iconic tidal pools: Wylie’s Baths is a cliffside-hugging rock pool perched right by Coogee beach, and a quieter alternative to popular Bondi Icebergs.

Further afield, the spectacularly scenic Blue Mountains National Park makes for easy day trip material — and it’s only a two-hour train ride away.

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