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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Allan Jenkins

A glorious organic garden in Kerala is a source of inspiration and envy

Pointing the way: ‘Lady fingers are beautiful, tall, mostly single-flowered plants spiked with cornered fruit.’
Pointing the way: ‘Lady fingers are beautiful, tall, mostly single-flowered plants spiked with cornered fruit.’ Photograph: Allan Jenkins

I am suffering serious plot envy. The cause: a five-acre organic garden in southern Kerala. Close by the ocean. The soil is rich and red, with a crumb like cake. Everywhere, an abundant variety of fruit and vegetables. Snake gourds, aubergine, turmeric, ginger, species of extravagant beans.

There are multiple varieties of chilli. Plus, tomatoes and peppers, many trays of coriander. Coconut is abundant: crazily tall skinny trees, alarmingly cropped by men free-climbing on spiked metal shoes. Fruit is hacked off with machetes, branches crashing down.

I take to wandering around most mornings. Often in envy, more often in near-open-mouthed admiration. I am joined by shrieking peacocks, a pair of playful mongooses.

Paths are lined with clover. Also marigolds grown for companion planting and puja. At the bottom of the site is a huge, ancient water tank. Just beyond it, a rich neighbour’s incongruous helipad.

There are many beds of yams and red amaranth. Grown from single seedlings immaculately spaced for optimum growth. I feel I am being gently schooled.

Banana plants are dotted through the site. Their fruit no larger than fat fingers. Papaya cascades in extravagant bunches.

I am inspired by a recycling innovation. Decapitated 5-litre plastic water bottles used as plant pots. The tops put out as mini greenhouses covering germinating seed.

Another revelation is bhindi: lady fingers. I only today discovered it is a Hibiscus esculentus. Beautiful tall, single-flowered mallow plants spiked with cornered fruit.

A gardener breaks one off for us to eat raw. It’s crisp, delicate, delicious. Later, we enjoy them in vegetable thoran. In a sambar with idli for breakfast.

Both are simple perfection: inspirational plot to plate.

But now please tell us: what gardening or gardeners inspire you?

Allan Jenkins’s Plot 29 (4th Estate, £9.99) is out now. Order it for £8.49 from guardianbookshop.com

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