Nobody’s wardrobe has undergone as much scrutiny in 2023 as that of Sam Smith.
The non-binary singer, who debuted a more expressive look with the help of stylist Ben Reardon alongside their new album Gloria, has managed to touch a nerve. Cue a tsunami of sartorial-related storms.
First came January’s nipple tassel-gate, following the release of their (ironically titled) ‘Not Here To Make Friends’ music video. There was balloon-gate, when Smith chose to wear an inflatable look by upcoming designer and London College of Fashion graduate Harri to the Brit awards in February, and even a satanic panic after they dressed as the devil for a performance at the Grammy Awards.
US Senator Ted Cruz has called Smith “evil”, Piers Morgan says they need to “shut up” and Noel Gallagher slammed them as a “f***ing idiot.” It is with this as a backdrop that the Gloria tour commenced.
Last night, as it landed with a blaze at the 02 Arena in London, Smith proved they weren’t for shrinking into the background. With a vast golden figure lying in the foetal position as a set, they glided through a setlist of certified bangers, starting with Stay With Me and closing with Unholy.
Smith raced through outfits that fluctuated between couture, casual and controversial. Smith promised a “Gay Cabaret,” and that it was. Here are the best looks from the Gloria tour, explained:
Fabulous in fuschia
This pink tulle extravagaza is one of the most associated with the artist’s new era. Made by Japanese fashion designer Tomo Koizumi, it is — by all measures — a show stopper. Smith wore the same frothy gown to exit a helicopter at the beginning of the ‘Not Here To Make Friends’ music video and for a performance on SNL, before it became a staple of the tour wardrobe. “Thank you Tomo for letting me wear your art,” Smith has said on Instagram. “I’ll forever be grateful for this pink explosion.” The backup dancers were all suitably kitted out in skin tight, diamanté dancesuits from cult NYC clubwear designer Lucas Stowe.
A powerful tribute
The most high-fashion look seen on stage was a billowing emerald, satin gown custom made by Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli. Most powerful was the diamanté halo headpiece worn, which proudly bared the name Brianna Ghey; the 16-year-old transgender girl who was murdered in Warrington on February 11. It was a touching statement against the trans and homophobia Smith knows well.
Gilded glamour
This intricately embellished golden corset, dripping with crystals and pearls, was made by the London-based independent designer Ed Marler. The Central Saint Martins graduate was a member of London Fashion Week talent incubator Fashion East in 2015, and has since built a cult following thanks to historical-referencing designs that come with queer flourishes. Smith is in good company when it comes to being a Marler stan: it is FKA Twigs’ go-to label.
Mother!
Smith chanelled the Virigin Mary with this ghoul-meets-religious-deity look, as they performed the title track Gloria. With chorale-esque vocals filling the 02, they looked luminous in this sheer white sheet draped over the body, finished with a golden, wired crown. Contrast was key, and underneath fans caught glimpses of the knee high boots, fishnets, briefs and cross-nipple tape that was to be revealed for the final number.
The devil within
The most controversial outfit of the tour, and Smith’s Unholy-era as a whole, is the sexualised portrayl of the devil (strange, as this has been a Halloween staple since time began). The horned outfits triggered outrage after performances at the Grammy and Brit awards this year, but a handful of Ofcom complaints didn’t seem to phase the singer. For their closing number, Smith stripped down to tights, boots, briefs and another corset and puff sleeved, training jacket by Ed Marler. It was polished off with a four-horned top hat and red crystallised satan’s trident, making for one hell of a memorable last look.
