A love letter to chef Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn's grandmother, Lahnyai Nusara offers a 14-course almost private dining experience.
"At Lahnyai Nusara, I use modern techniques and a variety of ingredients, not just Thai, with contemporary presentation," says the chef. Headed by chef Nongnuch "Nutt" Sae-ew, the restaurant differs from Nusara, the restaurant chef Ton opened last year. "The format is borrowed from Nusara but the techniques differ. The style is more feminine and enhanced."
Located in the confines of Baan Turtle on Suan Phlu Soi 2, Lahnyai Nusara is a chef's table (seating 14-16), with an open kitchen, just the way I like it. The tasting menu (B3,590++) serves a modern interpretation of chef Ton's grandmother's recipes mixed with recipes that were popular during her time. The amuse bouche of spring onion cream with local caviar in a kratong tong (golden cup), chicken curry chou with pickled onion and a savoury khanom bueang, which has shrimp roe and shrimp fat, whets your appetite and has you excited for what's to come.
A Thai classic often seen on most fine dining menus has been done a tad differently here. The tangmo pla heang comprises compressed watermelon, som saa and watermelon jelly, dashi jelly with dried tuna, ikura cured with fish salt, garnished with watermelon flowers and rosella leaf. A good dish leading up to the next Japanese-inspired course of chawanmushi, except in this case the crab sits atop a coconut relish with young ginger, scallions and caviar. Served with a Mother of Pearl spoon, it is a rather decadent course with lashings of black truffle shaved onto it.
One of my favourite Thai seaside dishes is goong chae nam pla and at Lahnyai Nusara it is served with prawns from Ranong, cold coriander water with chilli and mint oil, bitter gourd candied with palm sugar and garnished with rose apple flower. A soul-warming soup is next with abalone and three types of potato. The abalone stock is infused with basil, reminiscent of a tom jiew from the Rama V era. A spicy relish made with shrimp paste, coconut cream and foam from the South is mixed tableside and served with seasonal vegetables, Nusara's signature peanut chilli relish, and a phrik naam pla, made with grilled chillies.
Mains are served in the trendy old-fashioned way -- sambrub style. Hokkaido scallop is dehydrated and served with a tomalley sauce, a dash of white pepper and crab roe. The gaeng rawang or pork neck curry has lemongrass for the fragrant touch is accompanied by another signature dish from Nusara -- the pad kaprao wagyu beef. But the star of the mains is the gaeng nang loei made with dry-aged duck. The breasts are charcoal-grilled while the legs are confit. Both cuts are with capsicums and then cooked in the curry.
A betel leaf sorbet with grilled pineapple granita cleanses the palate, which is now ready for the rich dessert. Chor muang enters 2021 with caramelised coconut, warm coconut milk, a splash of truffle oil and if you're feeling festive, add shavings of white Alba truffle.
"It's the next legacy for my grandmother and for Thai food. Lahnyai Nusara is a more playful take on Nusara," adds chef Ton. Visit fb.com/lahnyainusara.
New menu at Nusara
Nusara, which opened in June 2020, serves dishes that are old school, made traditionally and retain their old-world charm.
The new menu, still under the helm of chef Nithit "Lenk" Nithikamphon, keeps its signature and favourites, while adding new dishes to its 12-course tasting menu (B2,990++). Delights in small bites like smoked mackerel with coconut, cucumber and young turmeric or the squid, cucumber and heirloom tomatoes lead into Andaman crab curry with betel leaf and a delight from the last menu, Horseshoe crab roe. Another favourite is the Hokkaido scallop served with sweet corn, kaffir lime leaf kosho and cured egg yolk. Mains include the Nusara signature pad kaprao wagyu beef, though with an added beef dish.
From the kitchens of Rama V, comes a dish that was brought by him during his travels to India, which he had his cook recreate for him. The Bum-bai curry, which is named after the Thai word for Bombay (now Mumbai) uses beef cheek. I loved the pickled lime soup with braised giant ocean snail and pork belly.
Insider's tip: Since Nusara is on Maharat Road, tucked into the small alley, its balcony offers a spectacular view of Wat Po. Do ask for a sneak peek! Visit fb.com/nusarabkk.
