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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Samantha Simmonds

A family guide to Muscat: What to eat, see and where to stay in Oman's ancient capital

Flying into Muscat, the capital of Oman, over the low lying white and cream traditional Arabic buildings and crystal clear seas, I immediately felt that I was being transported back in time to a place where ancient traditions meet cinematic landscapes.

Oman is the oldest independent state in the Arab world sitting at the south-eastern corner of the Arabian Peninsula it’s a destination like no other: a land of golden deserts, misty mountains, and untouched coastline, where incense once flowed along ancient trade routes and old forts still keep watch over sleepy fishing villages.

Little visited, less developed and pleasantly more affordable compared to the neighbouring and flashier Gulf States of Dubai and Doha, Oman is emerging as a standout destination for 2025, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, rich culture, and sustainable development.

The country’s tourism sector is undergoing transformative investment, with $5.9 billion being pumped into sustainable investment aimed at improving hospitality, transportation, and cultural offerings. It’s also considered one of the safest countries in the world (coming in at number five in the world safety index) and is the most affordable country in the region according to the 2025 cost of living index.

(St Regis)

Plus, Oman is a perfect family destination. There really is something for everyone — whether it was my adrenalin-junkie teenage boys who tackled E-foiling and sand boarding like pros, or my nature loving, shopping-addicted tweenager who loved the natural wonders of snorkelling and shopping for treasures in one of the oldest souks in the middle east.

My husband and I even snuck off early one more for a sunrise hike — not surprisingly the kids were not too keen on that one! It felt safe, very welcoming, with the perfect mix of relaxation, culture and adventure to suit all ages.

Muscat, the capital, is a city of sweeping crescents, whitewashed mosques and sun-bleached souks. Beyond it the country, which is bigger in area than the UK whilst having less than a tenth of the population, opens up into stunning landscapes.

Think deep canyons, endless dunes, turtle beaches, and wadis that feel like private oases. This is the Middle East at its most authentic, and perhaps most magical — and with temperate ranging between 17-30 C from October through April, it’s perfect for an adventure-loving winter family getaway, when sunshine is at its most abundant.

Where to eat

When it comes to dining in a new destination, my philosophy is to follow the locals—and in Muscat, that led us straight to Bait Al Luban, (orThe House of Frankincense), nestled in the heart of Muscat’s atmospheric Old Town. Stepping into this beautifully restored heritage building feels more like entering someone’s home than a restaurant. With handwoven carpets spread across the floor, low, traditional seating, and the subtle scent of frankincense wafting through the air, the ambiance alone is an experience.

The menu is a deep dive into Oman’s rich culinary heritage. Standouts include Shuwa, a slow-cooked marinated meat dish traditionally prepared in an underground sand oven during festive occasions, and Bamya, a comforting okra and tomato stew. Don't miss the Murahdaf, a delicious date-and-bread dish that’s both sweet and satisfying. It’s a feast for all senses and offers a genuine taste of local culture and at less than £20 a head was also great value.

(Jumeirah Muscat Bay)

For those with less adventurous palates or those simply looking for variety, Muscat’s dining scene caters to all preferences and budgets. International cuisines are well represented, particularly in the city’s high-end hotels. We had a memorable fine-dining experience at Peridot in the Jumeirah Muscat Bay, where innovative dishes are served with views of the dramatic Omani coastline.

Upscale global names like Coya and Novikov restuarants also have a presence here, blending luxury with international flair.

For something quicker or more casual, Muscat offers plenty of accessible options. The city is dotted with international fast-food chains and affordable local eateries, particularly around the Al Khuwair and Al Ghubra districts, where you can grab everything from shawarma wraps to spicy biryanis without denting your travel budget.

Where to shop

There is only one place to go for some old fashioned middle eastern goods and bartering — the Mutrah Souq. Nestled along the city’s historic corniche, this labyrinthine market has been a bustling hub of trade for over 200 years.

The moment you step inside, you're enveloped in a sensory whirlwind. Wisps of frankincense drift through the narrow, covered alleys, mingling with the scent of spices and perfumes. The dim lighting, wooden lattice ceilings make it feel like you've slipped back in time.

On offer a treasure trove of finds: from traditional Omani clothing and elaborately embroidered dishdashas to handwoven textiles, vibrant silks, and shelves stacked with saffron, cardamom, and dried limes. There are antique daggers (khanjars), ornate incense burners, and endless displays of gold and silver jewellery—more than you’ve likely ever seen in one place.

Haggling is not only expected here; it's part of the experience. My kids, who were relatively new to bartering, quickly embraced the challenge. Watching them negotiate prices with a mix of charm and determination—and walk away thrilled with their ‘victories’—was one of the highlights of the visit.

Read more: Why adventure-lovers need to visit Oman this year

If you are looking for more traditional retail therapy there are also a range of shopping malls to visit, including the Mall of Oman which includes Snow Oman, Mall of Muscat which also houses the Oman Aquarium and Muscat Grand Mall which offers panoramic views from its top floor.

Where to stay

St Regis Al Mouj Muscat Resort

(Jiri Lizler)

Perfectly situated near both Muscat International Airport and the historic Old Town, St. Regis is the epitome of luxury and elegance.

From the moment we arrived, nothing was too much for the friendly and attentive St. Regis team, who ensured every detail of our stay was flawlessly attended to. They perfectly struck the right balance between five-star professionalism and Omani hospitality.

The hotel itself is beautifully designed, with spacious suites, several excellent dining options, and a choice of swimming pools to unwind in, as well as a beautiful private beach.

There is a great health and wellness offering with daily classes in the gym which is open 24 hours a day. The rooftop padel court is a great addition, while the impressive Guerlain spa offers a relaxing retreat with its beachfront location.

One of the highlights of our stay was the evening champagne sabrage ceremony — a nod to a tradition started by the Astor family, founders of the original St. Regis in New York. Each evening, just before sunset, a member of the staff ceremoniously opens a bottle of champagne with a sabre in a moment of theatrical elegance. An ideal way to celebrate my husband’s birthday and toast the evening in true St. Regis style.

Rooms start from £235 + taxes. Book it here

Jumeirah Muscat Bay

From there and a relatively short drive from Muscat’s city centre, we headed to the Jumeirah Muscat Bay which offers a breathtaking setting as it is nestled between dramatic mountains and looks out to the sparkling Arabian Sea.

The resort is designed to cater for a broad range of travellers. Families will appreciate the dedicated kids’ club and family-friendly pool, while adults can relax in the exclusive adult-only infinity pool.

There’s also a wide range of water sports to enjoy — including snorkelling, paddleboarding, and kayaking, and the calm bay sheltered by stunning rock formations is perfect for a relaxing swim.

All of us gave E-foiling a try — you ride an electric hydrofoil board that feels like flying above the water.

Whilst the kids were enjoying all the Jumeriah had to offer, my husband and I even managed to take advantage of the on-site spa which offers luxurious treatments with beautiful ocean views, and dare I say it: total relaxation.

Dining here was a treat, with a fantastic buffet breakfast and restaurants serving both local Omani delicacies and international cuisine. Enjoy sushi and cocktails at Anzo and seafood dishes at Zuka.

Room from £350 plus taxes. Book it here

What to do

Muscat offers a rich blend of cultural discovery, natural beauty, and thrilling adventure—something for every kind of traveller.

We started with the city’s cultural crown jewels. The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is a must-see — not just for its grandeur but for the sheer artistry of its design.

(St Regis)

It houses the world’s second-largest hand-woven carpet and the largest chandelier on the planet, both awe-inspiring in scale and intricacy. Remember to dress modestly (we hired robes and scarves, which are usually available at the entrance).

Close by, the Royal Opera House Muscat is an architectural gem, marrying contemporary design with traditional Omani influences. Even if you're not catching a performance, the building itself is worth exploring.

No trip is complete without a photo stop at the Al Alam Palace, flanked by Portuguese forts and surrounded by pristine gardens — it’s a striking contrast of old and new.

I’d highly recommend taking the short boat ride — about 40 minutes — from Muscat to the Daymaniyat Islands, a protected marine reserve and absolute paradise for snorkelling and diving.

Dalmaniyat Islands off Muscat, Oman (Vicky Jessop)

As soon as we dove into the crystal-clear turquoise waters, the underwater world came to life. When my daughter spotted a turtle gliding past us, we followed it in quiet excitement… only to discover a group of about 15 turtles, peacefully grazing on seagrass below. It was one of those rare, pinch-yourself moments we’ll never forget.

Beyond the city, Oman’s wild side beckoned and we enjoyed a day trip to Wadi Shab and the Omani desert. Wadi Shab, is a stunning oasis of waterfalls and emerald pools that you can swim in.

From there we ventured further inland through the dramatic desert landscapes, where we sped along the sands and stopped to try sandboarding down the dramatic dunes.

We also visited a traditional Bedouin family, where we fed their camels on local dates before watching the sun set over the rolling sands — a truly wondrous experience.

And for those who love a challenge, hiking around Muscat’s rocky mountain backdrop was both invigorating and scenic. Trails range from gentle walks to more intense scrambles, the one we tried offered panoramic views of the coastline, and was well worth the early start before the heat of the day set in.

Getting there

Qatar Airways flights from London to Muscat Prices start from £435. Connecting via Doha is a child-friendly option with free buggies, kids play equipment and family rest areas. Book here

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