HBO's acclaimed series Euphoria returned for its third season on Sunday, 12 April. Director and creator Sam Levinson has faced fresh scrutiny over Sydney Sweeney's controversial OnlyFans storyline. Alongside this latest criticism is the resurfacing of long-standing allegations regarding 'aesthetic theft.'
These allegations centre on Levinson's alleged appropriation of Canadian photographer Petra Collins' signature visual style. Characterised by the misty, ethereal atmosphere found throughout her photographic work and music videos, Collins' style is now inextricably linked to the programme's own look. As the debate resurfaces, the dispute highlights broader questions about authorship, artistic influence, and ownership in the entertainment industry.
Petra Collins' Interview and Link to Euphoria
The core of the dispute stems from an interview Collins did with Hungarian photography magazine Punkt. Collins, who rose to fame for her distinctively hazy, pastel-and-neon photography that captures the raw emotionality of girlhood, shared that Levinson reached out to her agency, allegedly stating that he had written a show specifically based on her visual portfolio.
This offer has brought her to Los Angeles to serve as a director, spending five months developing the show's 'world' and assisting with casting. 'I created a whole world for it,' Collins stated. However, HBO eventually dismissed her from the project, citing concerns that she was 'too young' to helm the production.
As reported by Collider, Collins assumed that they wouldn't proceed with her version of the show. The photographer noted that she only realised her creative DNA remained in the show's blueprint when she saw a billboard for Euphoria, calling herself 'so naive.'
'I walked out of my apartment, and see this billboard and it's exactly what I am, as a copy of my work. I started crying, I was so shocked,' she said. Adding that the incident was 'so intense to me, because this is the aesthetic that built all my life.' Collins said that she had to change her aesthetic 'cause it enters the mainstream and it's been taken away from me.'
Visual Parallels and Criticism
The visual parallels between Collins' photography and Euphoria's first season are striking. Elements that became synonymous with the show's identity, specifically the 'glitter tears' and the use of vibrant, coloured gels to create a dreamlike atmosphere, mirror the work found in Collins' book, Coming of Age.
Critics argue that while Levinson is credited with the show's direction, the 'feminine gaze' that defined the early episodes was a product of Collins' uncredited labour.
Publications such as The Brock Press have noted that Collins had collaborated with several Euphoria stars, including Zendaya and Hunter Schafer, prior to the show's production, strengthening claims of her influence. Furthermore, Collider and The Daily Beast reported that a source close to Levinson denied Collin's version of the story, stating, 'As a fan of hers, he was hoping there was a possibility they could work together in that way. But by no means was anything promised. That wouldn't have even been possible for him to do because ultimately it's the network's decision.'
Wider Allegations Against Levinson
This was not the first time Levinson was accused of drawing inspiration from female creative work. Initially, Amy Seimetz was set to direct all six episodes of Levinson's series The Idol, but she exited the project due to 'a major creative overhaul.'
Despite the intensity of the online discourse following the series' third instalment, Levinson has yet to publicly address the allegations. HBO has also maintained silence, leaving the controversy unresolved.
