Enter Costa Rica and you’ll soon hear the country’s most crucial phrase: ‘pura vida’.
The national motto, which translates as ‘pure life’ (but is employed for everything from thanks to goodbye) sums up the laid-back state that has long brought Londoners to Central America's tourism hotspot in their droves.
A growing crop of top-notch restaurants, bars and boutique hotels is spreading across the country often ranked among the happiest in the world, but it is the lush rainforests and diverse wildlife of the place that sets it apart.
Here’s how to make the most of a few weeks in Costa Rica as a typical Londoner.
What to do
There really is one golden rule when it comes to Costa Rica: get outside. The country’s various nature-filled corners make the glut of spring fawns in Richmond Park a bore-fest; Hyde Park parakeets? Manuel Antonio, a national park in Costa Rica’s southwest, easily puts them in the shade (manuelantoniopark.net).
The park is a hotspot for sloth sightings, toucans, howler monkeys and the excellently named Halloween crab (for its pleasing shades of purple and orange); the animal-spotting is made all the more magical by the fact you can go for a dip in a swathe of bright blue sea afterwards. Elsewhere along this stretch of Pacific coastline there are whale watching and turtle nesting tours; expect each turn of a corner to provide a new, spectacular view.
Those hankering for a more London-style stomp through nature (which is to say, damp), will find their happy place inland in Monteverde — Costa Rica’s world-famous cloud forest — which delivers 26,000 acres of natural tree canopies with a year-round smattering of rain (monteverdeinfo.com).
Kick things up a gear at La Fortuna, a three-hour drive through winding mountains away, for ziplining and bathing in the hot springs of the Arenal volcano (arenal.net/la-fortuna-costa-rica).
Eat and drink
Where we have greasy spoons and (admittedly, ever-fancier) pub grub, Costa Rica has sodas. Don’t let the roadside locations or cheery mom-and-pop vibes fool you: menus always include seafood in grilled or ceviche form; a dish of the day (expect meat, rice and beans and fried plantains), all with the inevitable presence of Lizano salsa on the table.
Yes, there are a smattering of London-style small plates restaurants where you can blow £150 on dinner for two (and make the inevitable dash for a supermarket meal deal after) — but sodas are the best window into local life.
Those looking for something refined are better off seeking out its bars instead; there’s Pocket in San José, a gin house which serves up mother’s ruin with a vast array of locally-grown botanicals (pocketcr.com); Koko Gastro Bar in Jaco (instagram.com), for happy hour cocktails with a beachfront view, or Fuego Brew Co, which offers a nice selection of beers at the adjoining point of the Rio Barú and the Pacific Ocean (fuegobrew.com).
Where to stay
Given the country’s USP is its stunning nature, the cities get far less of a look-in—so don’t expect London-style offerings from its urban hubs (a West End-equivalent, string of pop-ups or drag brunches are unlikely to arrive anytime soon). Still, with flights from London landing in the capital of San José, it's worth working a city break into your trip.
Both the InterContinental (ihg.com) and Crowne Plaza la Sabana (ihg.com) make for an easy stay: pick the former if you want a little more luxe. Highlights include its 10-treatment room spa, where outdoor palapas will quickly make you feel like you’re in the tropics, alongside three pools and four restaurants. There is also a club lounge, either for IHG Hotel loyalty members, or those occupying certain rooms (the happy hour, which features excellent canapés and an open-bar, is a highlight). For something lower-key, try the Crowne Plaza for decent amenities, close proximity to city centre museums, and perhaps the friendliest staff on the planet.
Where to shop
Replace Victoria Park with the ocean, stick the sun overhead and a gaggle of hipsters around it, and you could (almost) be in Nosara. An uber-chill surfers’ paradise framed by poké bowl shacks, gelaterias and bars, it’s also among the country’s best places for boutique shopping.
There’s Yasmine, a unique spot whose pieces are primed for the Burning Man-goer (the eponymous designer also does bridal, for those in search of a distinctive up-the-aisle look); WLDFLWRS — yes, the vowels have been removed just in case you were in any doubt over its millennial street cred — is a must for beachwear, with simple linen styles spanning hats, bags and clothing that can survive the Costa Rican heat.
Try MAGIC Boutique for floaty tribal-meets-yogi beach style, Nosara Design by Pauline for holiday-imbued homewares, and Soli for swimsuits. No, you can't pack Costa Rica's wildlife, sunshine or pura vida into your suitcase, but a tchotchke or two might help ease the post-landing blues.
IHG Hotels and resorts has five properties in Costa Rica: find more information at ihg.com/costa-rica
