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Reuters
Reuters
Entertainment
Ahmed Saeed and Alaa al-Marjani

'A blessing from God': Iraqi truffle hunters unearth desert harvest

A truffle seller sits at a market in the city of Samawa, Iraq, February 22, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani

"Here it is, the truffle, a blessing from God!" Zahra Buheir carefully digs out a desert truffle from the sandy earth and shows it off between her calloused fingers.

    "Rain came, and then thunder, bringing truffles up to the surface," the 72-year-old said.

People eat truffles at the restaurant Beit al-Hatab, in Samawa, Iraq, February 22, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani

    Braving the harsh weather of Iraq's southern desert, as well as left-behind land mines, Buheir and her family of seven have spent weeks hunting for the seasonal truffles that have provided them with an income for generations.

    Fetching its hunters up to $7 a kilo this year, Iraq's desert truffle is cheaper than its rarer European cousins that can cost hundreds of dollars or more a kilo.

    But with Iraq's economy in crisis, the local variety are a big help to Buheir and her family.

Mohsen Farhan, 31, a truffle hunter, eats food with his family in a tent in the desert in Samawa, Iraq, February 23, 2021. "When there is no work, truffles are a source of income. And we are happy here," said Farhan. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani

    This year the rain came late and Buheir could only find about a kilo of truffles a day, one tenth of what she would dig up in a good year.

    Turning over stones and poking the earth with her bare hands, Buheir's granddaughter, 5-year-old Riyam, accompanied her parents to learn a trade and the desert lifestyle.

    "When there is no work, truffles are a source of income. And we are happy here," said Riyam's father Mohsen Farhan, who cherishes the weeks he spends with his family in their tent in the desert.

Zahra Buheir, 72, a truffle hunter, makes bread in the desert in Samawa, Iraq, March 1, 2021. "Here it is, the truffle, a blessing from God!" said Buheir. "Rain came, and then thunder, bringing truffles up to the surface." REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani

    Learning to hunt for truffles these days also involves understanding the desert's dangers.

    "We are afraid of wolves, there are a lot here. And there are mines. A while ago, someone died," Farhan said.

    Remnants from the Gulf war in 1991, unexploded devices beneath the earth could be mistaken for truffles by the inexperienced eye.

Truffle sellers stand at a market in the city of Samawa, Iraq, February 22, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani

    Every few days, Hussein Abu Ali, drives into the desert from the city of Samawa to take the truffles to market.

    There, Ali Tajj al-Din sells them at auction, each with a different name according to size.

    "These are walnuts, eggs, oranges, and here is the pomegranate, the biggest one," he said.

Abu Jakka Farhan, a truffle hunter, sits in the desert in Samawa, Iraq, March 1, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani

    This year, scarcity has pushed up prices and truffles that don't sell locally are exported to wealthier Gulf countries.

    But customers at Samawa's "Beit al-Hatab" restaurant relish its weekly truffle speciality.

    "We fry or grill them, but the favourite dish is truffles on rice," said restaurant owner Fawwaz Hatab.

Hussein Abu Ali (right), a car driver, carries boxes of truffles in the desert in Samawa, Iraq February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani

(Writing by Charlotte Bruneau; Editing by Giles Elgood)

A man buys truffles at a market in the city of Samawa, Iraq, February 22, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
Abu Jakka Farhan, a truffle hunter, is pushed in a wheelchair as he searches for truffles in the desert in Samawa, Iraq, February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
Ra'ad Abdelemir, a trader, sorts truffles in a tent at a market in Samawa, Iraq, February 22, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani SEARCH "TRUFFLES SAMAWA" FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH "WIDER IMAGE" FOR ALL STORIES
Salma Mohsen, 10, poses for a photo holding a truffle, in the desert in Samawa, Iraq, February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
A woman extracts truffles from the soil in the desert in Samawa, Iraq, February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
The tent of Abu Jakka Farhan, a truffle hunter, sits in the desert in Samawa, Iraq, February 23, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
A worker cooks a meal with truffles at the restaurant Beit al-Hatab, in the city of Samawa, Iraq, March 2, 2021. REUTERS/Alaa Al-Marjani
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