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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Politics
César Dezfuli. Production: Matt Fidler

51st state: Kosovo's bond to the US – photo essay

A house decorated for an Independence Day party in Ferizaj
A house decorated for an Independence Day party in Ferizaj Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli

In the 1990s Kosovo’s first president, Ibrahim Rugova, ended his news conferences every Friday with the words “God bless America and our western friends”. The phrase stuck with the public and the sentiment only grew stronger when Bill Clinton ordered Nato to bomb Serbian targets during the Kosovo war in 1999.

Klinton Bajgora, 13, sits between his parents for a family portrait at home in Podujevo, Kosovo
Klinton Bajgora, 13, sits between his parents for a family portrait at home in Podujevo, Kosovo. He was named in honour of Bill Clinton, the US president at the time of the Kosovo war.
  • Klinton Bajgora, 13, named in honour of Bill Clinton, sits between his parents at their home in Podujevo.

Nowadays it is hard to find any physical trace of the war. A generation has grown up in an environment of peace and relative stability. However, that pro-US sentiment is still present.

A large American flag painted in 2008 on a wall in Gjilan
A large American flag, along with slogans of thanks to Bill Clinton and some of the countries that recognised the independence of Kosovo, painted in 2008 on a wall in Gjilan.
  • A large American flag, along with slogans of thanks to Bill Clinton and some of the countries that recognised the independence of Kosovo, painted in 2008 on a wall in Gjilan.
A women’s clothing store on Bill Clinton’s Avenue in Pristina
A women’s clothing store on Bill Clinton’s Avenue in Pristina.
  • A dress shop in Pristina.

One of the main roads in the capital, Pristina, is called Bulevardi Bill Klinton, for the US president at the time of the war. Other roads, as well as schools and sports centres, are named after Clinton’s secretary of state, Madeleine Albright, the US congressman Eliot Engel, the former president George Bush and the leaders of other Nato member countries including the UK’s Tony Blair, of whom Kosovo is particularly fond.

A statue of Bill Clinton in Pristina
A statue of Bill Clinton in Pristina.

Independence Day

Every 4 July, Independence Day in the US, firefighters in Pristina clean a statue of Bill Clinton in a central square and replace the American flag that flies nearby. The ceremony is organised by the Association of Friends of America in Kosovo and is attended by public and military officials and representatives of the US embassy.

A Kosovan guard holds a US flag during the flag-change ceremony on 4 July
A Kosovan guard holds a US flag during the flag-change ceremony on 4 July.
Kosovan guards during the flag-change ceremony on 4 July
Kosovan guards during the flag-change ceremony on 4 July. Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli
  • Kosovan guards during the flag-change ceremony.

There is also an annual children’s basketball tournament called Thank You USA to mark Independence Day.

Children play basketball during the friendly tournament on 4 July
Children play basketball during the friendly tournament on 4 July.
  • Participants in the basketball tournament.

American troops have been present in Kosovo since 1999 as part of a Nato peacekeeping mission. Today there are 600-700 US Nato soldiers on Kosovan soil.

US and Kosovan military officials meet in Ferizaj
US and Kosovan military officials meet in Ferizaj.
  • US and Kosovan military officials meet in Ferizaj.

The mayor of Llashticë, a town in south-east Kosovo, is a big fan of the US and has invested thousands of euros in recent years in decorating the town with stars and stripes and posters that refer to key moments in the course of the war.

Flags and posters in Llashtice
Flags and posters in Llashtice.

State 51

Many American companies and institutions have economic and labour links with Kosovo.

Restaurant Route 66 in Pristina
Restaurant Route 66 in Pristina.
  • Restaurant Route 66 in Pristina.
A farewell celebration in a bar in Pristina for someone who will soon move to the US to work
A farewell celebration in a bar in Pristina for someone who will soon move to the US to work. Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli
  • A farewell celebration in a bar in Pristina for someone who will soon move to the US to work.
US military uniforms and other items for sale at the Sunday flea market in Fushë Kosova, outside Pristina
US military uniforms and other items for sale at the Sunday flea market in Fushë Kosova, outside Pristina. Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli
  • US military uniforms and other items for sale at the Sunday flea market in Fushë Kosova, outside Pristina
Agim Rexhepi, president of the Association of Friends of America in Kosovo
Agim Rexhepi, president of the Association of Friends of America in Kosovo, poses for a portrait in his office in Pristina, where letters from Bill Clinton are displayed on the wall. Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli
Arlind Basha displays his tattoo of an eagle
Arlind Basha displays his tattoo of an eagle with verses in English that refer to the Kosovan Albanian national identity. The eagle is a patriotic symbol for both Albanians and Americans. Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli
  • Agim Rexhepi, president of the Association of Friends of America in Kosovo, poses for a portrait in his office in Pristina. Right: Arlind Basha displays his tattoo of an eagle with verses in English that refer to the Kosovan Albanian national identity.

The Vali Ranch leisure complex in Perlepnicë, near the city of Gjilan, seeks to recreate elements of the American West and US culture.

A Vali Ranch worker returns a horse to the stables after a jump show
A Vali Ranch worker returns a horse to the stables after a jump show. Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli
  • A Vali Ranch worker returns a horse to the stables after a jump show.

There are numerous gun ranges in Kosovo, many of them opened by the state after the war. They also act as a way to control gun ownership in Kosovo.

Inside a shooting range in Obiliq, on the outskirts of Pristina
Inside a shooting range in Obiliq, on the outskirts of Pristina. Many of the weapons at this centre are American-made. Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli
  • Inside a shooting range in Obiliq, on the outskirts of Pristina.

Throughout Kosovo there are many private houses, restaurants, hotels and public buildings built as imitations of the White House.

White House Restaurant, in the Shar Mountains national park near Prizrenr
White House restaurant, in the Sharr Mountains national park near Prizren, is a popular tourist attraction. Photograph: Cesar Dezfuli
  • White House restaurant, in the Sharr Mountains national park near Prizren, is a popular tourist attraction.
Bill Klinton Street in Peja, western Kosovo
Bill Klinton Street in Peja, western Kosovo. Most cities in Kosovo have streets named in honour of the former US president or other western political leaders.
An image of the Statue of Liberty in the living room of Ruzhdi Kuçi, known as Amerikani, whose home is full of US-related decorations
An image of the Statue of Liberty in the living room of Ruzhdi Kuçi, known as Amerikani, whose home is full of US-related decorations.
  • Bill Klinton Street, in Peja, western Kosovo. Right: An image of the Statue of Liberty in the living room of Ruzhdi Kuçi, known as Amerikani, whose home is full of US-related decorations.
Jashar Jashari, 22, works as a boxing coach at the Kickbox Rigoro Gym in Pristina
Jashar Jashari, 22, works as a boxing coach at the Kickbox Rigoro Gym in Pristina and competes in national leagues. He hopes to move soon to the US to become a professional boxer.
Agim Vatovci, who works at the Pristina post office, is well known in his home city of Vushtrri for wearing US-themed ties and hats
Agim Vatovci, who works at the Pristina post office, is well known in his home city of Vushtrri for wearing US-themed ties and hats.
  • Devoted to the US: Jashar Jashari and Agim Vatovci.
A house decorated for an Independence Day party in Ferizaj
A house decorated for an Independence Day party in Ferizaj.

Diaspora in the US

Many Kosovans live in the United States, which along with Germany and Switzerland was one of the main host countries for Kosovan refugees in the 1990s. Some, like Qamil Brahimi, who fled to make a new life in New York during the war, have properties back in Kosovo to which they return during holidays.

Qamil Brahimi’s daughter Valbona, an American citizen of Kosovan origin, at one of the houses he built in his home town of Ferizaj
Qamil Brahimi’s daughter Valbona, an American citizen of Kosovan origin, at one of the houses he built in his home town of Ferizaj.
  • Qamil Brahimi’s daughter Valbona, an American citizen of Kosovan origin, at one of the houses he built in his home town of Ferizaj.

Eddie Steven’s father, Rox, arrived in the US in the 1990s as a refugee and began a new life with an American woman. He built the California Resort on the outskirts of Pristina, and every summer his family returns to enjoy the park.

Eddie Steven, wearing American flag shorts, is the son of the owner of the California Resort on the outskirts of Pristina
Eddie Steven, wearing American flag shorts, is the son of the owner of the California Resort on the outskirts of Pristina. They live in California, USA.
  • Eddie Steven, from California, wearing American flag shorts, at the California Resort his father built.

As long as there are no major changes in US policy towards Kosovo, there is no reason to believe the territory’s devotion will fade. The stars and stripes will continue to be hoisted in Pristina every 4 July.

USA-H, a pizzeria and gas station on the route between Prishtina and Peja, west Kosovo
USA-H, a pizzeria and gas station on the route between Prishtina and Peja, west Kosovo.
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