A constellation of galleries, clubs, music venues, restaurants, cafes and bars make for a robust creative scene that gives the Netherlands’ second-biggest city underground cred. But there’s so much more to Rotterdam. “The scale, the architecture, the cultural blend of people, the way the city is laid out … all of these things contribute to its unique dynamic,” says acclaimed Rotterdam-based artist Remty Elenga.
Striking, ambitious public art displays, ubiquitous cycle lanes and airy well-kept green spaces all contribute to the steady modern renaissance of one of the world’s busiest port cities, which can be enjoyed equally by day or by night. Best of all, it’s just three hours by direct train from London with Eurostar.
Day one
Witte de Withstraat has been called Rotterdam’s “coolest street”, so where better to begin? Kickstart your trip with a good strong hit of caffeine from artisan coffee roaster and bakery Hopper Coffee, followed by a stroll around the nearby Witte de With Center for Contemporary Art – “the most progressive institute for visual art in the Netherlands”, according to Fons Hof, director of world-renowned art fair Art Rotterdam.
Being so compact, Rotterdam is easily explored on foot, but the city is also well served by metro, tram, bus and watertaxi routes. The latter is, arguably, the most fun and scenic way to get around, although – this being the Netherlands and all – the most authentic way to travel is by bike. You can rent one cheaply from the likes of nearby Centrum Bikes, or through an app service such as Donkey Republic. Pedal a windswept route around the waterfront, working in a circuit of the pretty Het park if you’ve got time, before taking the escalator down into the Maastunnel. An under-sung historic architectural wonder, completed and opened during the Nazi occupation of the city in the 1940s, this subterranean link between the north and south banks of the Nieuwe Maas has a dedicated tunnel for cyclists that’s a thrill to bullet through.
For a more modern symbol of Rotterdam’s built environment, swing past Dutch starchitect Rem Koolhaas’s towering De Rotterdam. The largest building in the Netherlands, the 150-metres tall and more than 100-metres wide “gleaming beacon of prosperity” is emblematic of a skyline that’s been climbing ever higher in increasingly more experimental ways since being flattened by Luftwaffe bombers in the second world war. Also iconic is the nearby Erasmus Bridge, nicknamed “The Swan” for its graceful asymmetrical design.
Loop back up to Centrum for dinner and drinks. Eat Mexican with a fun and fresh twist at Supermercado, or stylish Italian tapas at Lux. Or, for a taste of something more local, try De Jong, which brings the flavour of Dutch vegetables, herbs, seaweed, flowers and leaves to its secret menu. Don’t be surprised if you wind up literally eating a tulip.
After that, hit some of the down-to-earth watering holes along Witte de Withstraat, such as De Witte Aap or De Schouw, or seek out the nomadic BAR – currently situated near Centraal station – which moves around periodically, bringing new life to forgotten corners of the city. Several gems of Rotterdam’s club scene are just a short walk, metro or cab journey away (best park the bike now if you’ve had a few). At BIRD, DJs can be found spinning everything from funk, soul and jazz to hip-hop and techno, but if you fancy something a little scuzzier, head to the imposing, dystopian-looking waterfront Maassilo complex. You may not stumble out of either until daylight has resumed.
Day two
Bribe yourself into getting out of bed semi-early by having an indulgent brunch at Poffertjessalon Seth, so named after the oh-so-Dutch sweet delicacy of tiny, sugar-dusted pancakes. They cook them to a traditional family recipe here, and serve them at wooden benches surrounded by retro furnishings.
Just opposite is the famous Markthal, a giant, horseshoe-shaped update on the traditional European indoor market, sheltering 100 fresh-food stands, plus various shops and restaurants. Some locals prefer a more authentic nearby alternative, however. “The real market is literally in front of it on Tuesdays and Saturdays,” points out Jeroen Reek, singer-guitarist with Rotterdam psychedelic rock band Iguana Death Cult. “Get yourself a raw herring and watch the beautiful people,” he adds.
Arno Coenen and Iris Roskam’s 11,000 square-metre Horn of Plenty mural, which adorns the arched walls and ceiling of the Markthal, typifies the city’s approach to public art. “A community of architects, artists and designers gives the city a very dynamic nature,” says Hof. Just a 10-minute walk away from the Markthal is the Het Industriegebouw, a large industrial building housing tech startups and designers, as well as trendy retailers, such as the Groos design store.
For further proof of Rotterdam’s emerging creative scene, pick up the seven-kilometre Street Art Route [pdf] by foot or by bicycle, and take in up to 28 impressive wall paintings around central Rotterdam. The route also passes handily close by to some of the city’s many famous sculptures, including Ossip Zadkine’s The Destroyed City, which commemorates the second world war bombing of Rotterdam, Pablo Picasso and Carl Nesjar’s sandstone Cubist wonder Sylvette, and Paul McCarthy’s bulbous and controversially suggestive Santa Claus – if you think that’s a Christmas tree he’s brandishing, think again. Several world-class galleries are within easy reach too, such as Frank Taal, Phoebus and the Dutch Fotomuseum.
The former red-light district of Katendrecht, now widely known as De Kaap (the Cape) has become “a vibrant cultural hotspot”, according to Philip Powel, co-founder of BIRD. The Fenix Food Factory, a converted warehouse on the dock, is now home to a host of artisanal producers, among them Kaapse Brouwers, one of the best of many craft breweries to set up in Rotterdam in recent years. Stop by their waterfront brewpub for a fruity and bitter Bea black rye IPA, a seriously stronger Jaapie red ale or an even stronger Gozer oatmeal stout.
Round off your trip by delving into Rotterdam’s thriving live-music scene. The famous and longstanding bar, restaurant, concert venue and club Rotown is the place to get up close and personal with local and touring bands in a snug 250-capacity space. For more rarefied sounds, try Rotterdam’s self-styled “communal living-room, project space and underground laboratory”, Roodkapje. It boasts “one of the city’s best programmes for underground music,” according to Reek. “It’s also a burger bar,” he adds. “If that’s not a win-win situation, I don’t know what is.”
Getting there
Eurostar has a twice-daily direct service from London St Pancras to Rotterdam and Amsterdam Centraal with prices starting from £35 one way. On the return journey, passengers will need to take a Thalys train from Rotterdam to Brussels-Midi for security checks, before boarding the Eurostar to London. To book, visit Eurostar.com
