A dazzling array of jewelry by the French luxury brand Chaumet is on display in Tokyo, showcasing the almost 240-year history and traditions of the Paris-based creator.
Tiaras, necklaces and watches are among the exhibited items all elaborately designed and adorned with diamonds and other gems, at "The Worlds of Chaumet: The art of jewellery since 1780." The show will run through Sept. 17 at the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo in Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo.
Although most of the about 300 featured items are jewelry, the items also include design sketches and notebooks that record the inspiration for the brand's creations. Visitors will likewise find portraits of Chaumet clients painted by Marie Laurencin and other renowned artists.
On display at the entrance is the famous portrait of "Emperor Napoleon I in coronation robes" by Francois Gerard (1806). Napoleon was Chaumet's first important client, and in the painting, he wears a sword adorned with a 140-carat diamond and other gemstones that were set into its hilt by the founder of Chaumet, Marie-Etienne Nitot, at the request of this new master of France as a symbol of his power.
There is also a portrait of Napoleon's wife, Empress Josephine, who had a passion for jewelry and was a leader of fashion and elegance.
The exhibition was supervised by Henri Loyrette, honorary director of the Louvre Museum, and includes items on loan from 15 large museums across the world and 40 private collections.
This is one of the largest exhibitions by the jeweler and required three years to prepare, said Chaumet CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt at a press conference held prior to the opening of the exhibition.
"Chaumet has been a witness to the tradition and history of Paris' sophisticated art, culture and lifestyle. We want to present the beauty of our jewelry and also communicate our techniques and enthusiasm for creating new things to the next generation," Mansvelt said.
I believe this exhibition is worth seeing for two reasons in particular. First, it's a rare opportunity to admire so many beautiful pieces close-up and in optimum lighting conditions.
The other reason is that it will satisfy a diverse range of interests. It's obvious the brand intends to feature its great abilities in design, while some items illustrate the influence of various art movements. Some may focus on the role jewelry has played in human life and thought, while enthusiasts of Napoleon I will likely be happy at his presence throughout the show.
The exhibition consists of eight chapters: I. Chaumet Throughout History, II. The "Founding Muses," III. Crowned! The Art of the Tiara, IV. Chaumet's Distant Horizons, V. Showcasing Nature, VI. Art of Wearing Jewellery, VII. Jewellery: A Kinetic Art, and VIII. Chaumet and Japan.
Chapters I and II mainly feature pieces associated with Napoleon I, his two wives, Josephine and Marie-Louise, and other family members. Among so many extravagant pieces, the small "Empress Eugenie's Trefoil Brooch (second version)" (1853) may seize visitors' attention due to its modesty. Its three leaves are made with translucent green enamel and lined with small diamonds.
According to the exhibition catalogue, a brooch of this design was ordered by Emperor Napoleon III as a gift for his future wife, Eugenie, after he saw her delight over a dew-covered clover during a walk. The empress cherished this small jewel all her life and wore it on the front of her bodice, as is shown in a portrait of her on display next to this piece.
Tiaras, featured in Chapter III, are Chaumet's signature creations. About 200 replicas of tiaras from the brand are on display, along with several original finished pieces. Several hundreds of models are shown at a Chaumet salon in Paris as well.
Chapter V features items themed on nature. "Octopus Necklace" is an intriguing piece: Its body and curvy tentacles are made with frosted crystal and adorned with diamond and rubellite, and it grips a seaweed garland of sculpted jasper. This was made in 1970, when interest in surrealist art was renewed.
The Chaumet exhibition also illustrates the influence of old and new foreign cultures on the brand, with Chapter VIII intended as a tribute to Japanese traditional arts and craftwork.
A lacquerware writing case owned by Queen Marie Antoinette and on loan from the Musee Guimet is on display, not because it is a Chaumet, but because the Chaumet founder, who was appointed to appraise her collection during the upheaval of the French Revolution, recognized its value and suggested it be treasured. The design of the case is based on "The Tale of Genji."
Likewise, a Chaumet brooch on display depicting Raijin, a Japanese god of rain and thunder was made around 1900 and represents the influence of Japonism.
The Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo is a reproduction of an office building from the Meiji era (1868-1912). It enhances the exhibition through its distinctive floor plan with numerous partitions, which require visitors to walk some distance from one room to the next, giving them a respite from the exhibition's overwhelming glitter.
Above all, "The Worlds of Chaumet" illustrates the grandeur of Emperor Napoleon I and Empress Josephine, who led Chaumet to greatness as a jeweler.
"The Worlds of Chaumet: The art of jewellery since 1780" runs through Sept. 17 at the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo in Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo. Closed on Mondays, except July 30, Aug. 27, Sept. 10 and Sept. 17. Visit mimt.jp/chaumet/eng for more information.
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