The Quadrilatero della Moda or Quard d’Oro is not just a buzzword, it was a full-blown emotion, especially during the MFW taking place this season. It's a Golden Square of fashion which branches out over four streets filled with upscale shopping in the central Storico district. The main drag, Via Monte Napoleone hosted a fashion parade with posh cafes in neoclassical mansions. Nearby, the Palazzo Morando museum demonstrates period costumes, and Renaissance-era decorative arts are on show in the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi. Keeping the classics in its roots, Milan had its own Moulin Rouge of fashion where each fashion artist performed theatrical with an individual capacity of art, fashion and trailblazing glamour. MFW women’s Fall/Winter 23-24 took place last week between February 21-27. The first-day opening event of the CNMI ( Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana ) at Palazzo Giureconsulti presented emerging designers for the planet, A Global Movement to uplift Underrepresented Brands, MFW forward and Budapest select. The biggest online fashion portal LUISAVIAROMA created LVROOM, a
styling suite with a selection of garments chosen from the latest proposal of emerging designers and big brands. The last day's finale was with Mister Armani closing the week with the premier of the new documentary ‘Milano’. Let's churn out some considerable highlights through behaviour, style and fashion.
What's up, close and personal
Vogue Italia has chosen Gisele Bündchen as the pin-up doll for the March edition. Who would have guessed? Tom And Gisele filed for divorce in Florida around October ‘22 but when the marriage ran out of fuel, it was fashion who came to rescue its favourite girl. Gisele Bündchen looks hot and brand new in a fiery red buzz cut, Pencil-thin
eyebrows with matching nails, and lips in Valentino red. Editor Francesca Ragazzi says “Our cover story is a chromantic journey through the thousands of transformations of a woman who, usually portrayed as natural, is almost unrecognizable here. Just around fashion week, this cover was out setting a strong tone for the future of fashion.
Day one dropped Iceberg, Daniela Gregis, Fendi, Del Core, Marco Rambaldi, Alberta Ferretti, No 21, Roberto Cavalli, Etro, and Onitsuka Tiger, but the eye-catching act of Diesel and Durex in collaboration declared to give out 300,000 condoms for free around the world in April followed by a gigantic mountain of 200,000 condoms revealed at the opening show to show the spirit of individual freedom. The collection wasn't that highly appreciated yet striking 3d prints, airy silhouettes and fiery flow did take over the “No style old direction” of the stage.
Followed by Max Mara, Genny, Calcaterra, Antprima, Prada, MM6, Budapest Select, Emporio Armani, Bluemarine, Moschino and yes the most emerging brand from Italy, GCDS closed the finale with their iconic cat face crystallisation for the main stage. GCDS FW23/24 collection relies on the face-off of the sweet and darkly seductive, with accessories blowing the claws of domestic felines to human proportions, turning them into sensual weapons. Their Morso Thongs heels and boots in acid neons and patent leather are truly a treat to the season, and their Comma Telephone bags are just a thing every fashionista would crave to keep in her closet. Their crystal Feline clutch caught too much attention on the runway with Chrome metallic boots with the logo embossed. In simple words..., If you know fashion you know GCDS.
Another day another play raised the curtain for Tods, Act No 1, Sportmax, Philosophy, Gucci, Cormo, Adreadamo, Sunnei, Vivetta and Jil Sander. But Gucci Ship tried to stand still and sail with a new creative head playing in proportion. Heirloom-inspired jewellery and a tiny crystal logo bikini dropped high-spirited conversation between the creative visions that evoked different eras and attitudes. Their trapezoidal and Horsebit-adorned handbag from 2003 returned to the runway at the women’s FW23 fashion show. Dakota Johnson in sheer logo slip came
in support with A$AP Rocky, Global Brand Muse Hanni, Julia Garner and Halle Bailey.
Next Day dropped Ferrari, Ermanno Scervino, Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, Msgm, Bally, Missoni, Tokyo James, Han Kjøbenhaven, Bottega Veneta, and Philipp Plein. New DGFattoAMano broke the boundaries by dropping “Sensuale” with the most highlighted glove trends. Gloves got new hype during NYFW this season but DG being
known for their royal touch added jewels to the grandness of gloves.
The collection unveiled a new dimension of sensuality that draws on the internal experiences that make women spontaneous and natural. An intriguing interplay of weights and volumes, iconic colours and meticulously tailored cuts with high-end jewels. Full-body crystals and metal studs created aristocracy in all their ready-to-wear pieces. Salma Hayek and François-Henri Pinault the CEO of Kering and owner of Bottega Veneta graced the MFW with their appearance at the show.
The last day showcased Shuting Qiu, Hui, and Tomo Koizumi supported by DG, Luisa Spagnoli, Annakiki, Viteli, Giorgio Armani, Aniye Records, Francesca Liberatore, Atsushi Nakashima. Mr Armani dropped a collection which proved tenderness is the new treat. Giorgio Armani looks towards the gentle with inventive but doesn't colours, and a similar treatment with fabrics, Says Suzy Menkes. On the last day of fashion week premiered the movie MILANO - The Inside Story Of Italian Fashion. A film by John Maggio recounting the events that took place
the days before the assassination of Gianni Versace, including details on the secret planning of the merger between Gucci and Versace.
The documentary includes incomparable protagonists such as Sharon Stone, Tom Ford, and Giorgio Armani.
Milano, here we come and here we go, a week deserves a gold star for all that fashion and milanisé putting their best foot forward. Anna Dello Russo being a goddess of Italian fashion, flaunted herself in her adorable favourites such as the latest major GCDS red heels with faux feathers posing with stunning Dua Lipa in Sheer Bodysuit, her diesel ruffled dress with denim boots, sitting next to the sensational Alexis Stone. While fashion photographer Nima Benati levelled up her love for fashion in a sheer bodysuit and fishnet stockings bringing Barbiecore’s
temperature high with mermaid waves in hazel-brown tresès. Bodysuits with stockings and overcoats are a new way forward and it was proven by sincere and slander Leonie Hanne, a well-accomplished fashion influencer whose vegan lifestyle and fashion edits will give anyone a run for the money. She graced Prada with faux feather eyelashes, a bodysuit with black stockings and all Prada accessories. It's time to say ciao Milano for now, until the next fashion rendezvous.
