At the risk of sounding like a stuck record, I’m back on the subject of supermarket booze again this week, the reason being it’s the height of the spring tasting season. The most recent one was Tesco, which still accounts for roughly 28% of the bottles we buy. Does it deserve more than a quarter of our entire custom? Well, put it this way, Tesco is not significantly worse than its main competitors, but it’s a long way from offering the choice it did in its Wine Club heyday, not only in types of wine, but in terms of suppliers, too.
Take the New Zealand range Tesco showed the other day (mostly, admittedly, from it “Finest*” label, which is where the better value lies). Of the 10 wines on show, eight were from a large own-brand producer called Indevin, which, in Tesco’s words, “creates exclusive wine programs for the world’s biggest wine retailers”. It’s a similar situation with South Africa, where all seven own-label wines on show came from an outfit called Origin, by whom I’ve never been particularly impressed.
You can see the advantage from Tesco’s point of view – it puts the store in a strong position to keep prices down – but it doesn’t make for particularly interesting drinking. Its relationship with Chilean giant Concha y Toro, a well-known brand in its own right, is rather more inspiring because, given its name is on the label, it has something to lose by supplying wines of mediocre quality. I liked both the Finest Peumo Carmenère (though, at £9, it’s worth waiting for it to be on offer, 13.5%) and the new Aromatico.
Where Tesco is innovating, however, is in the low-alcohol section, which again is largely made by one company, Felix Solis from Spain. They’re not particularly what I want to drink when I’m not drinking (too sweet by half), but the Low-Alcohol Cabernet Tempranillo (£2.75, <0.5%) does actually bear some resemblance to red wine and the Low-Alcohol Garnacha Rosé (£2.75, <0.5%) isn’t bad if you don’t mind a sweeter rosé, though I’d be tempted to drop a couple of ice cubes into it.
Overall, there’s not much to get excited about, in contrast to what’s going on in the beer aisle, where Tesco’s has launched a highly innovative, colourful range of beers in collaboration with some of the country’s leading craft brewers. Some I’m sure will appal real ale aficionados, but I’d be more than happy to be brought a can of Wild Card’s stylish (double dry hopped) DDH IPA (£3 for 440ml, 7.5%) by any guest who came to supper.
Four wines to buy at Tesco
£6.50, 13.5%.
Reliably consistent, and more subtle than many cheap sauvignons.
Finest CSG Aromatico 2018
£8 (selected stores from May 13), 12.5%.
Exotic blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and gewürztraminer from Chilean giant Concha y Toro. Good with mild-ish curry.
£7.50, 13.5%.
Robust, spicy, Languedoc red with a good whack of syrah. Try with garlicky sausages.
£6 a half-bottle in selected stores, 15%.
Supermarket sherries are some of the best bargains around, and this is no exception. Serve chilled with tapas.
• For more by Fiona Beckett, go to matchingfoodandwine.com
