As we cycle through the long, eerily lit railway tunnel, the kids whooping to hear their voices echo, I’m half expecting to see a train thundering towards us. But, no, this is part of the Peak District’s Monsal Trail, an 8.5-mile cycling/walking/horse-riding path along the former Midland Railway line between Blackwell Mill and Bakewell.
Kitted out with hybrid bikes and helmets from Monsal Trail Cycle Hire, we started at Hassop station and headed towards Blackwell Mill. The trail made for a perfect family ride – pan-flat, with sweeping views of the dales for the grownups, plus the added novelty of cycling over majestic viaducts and through the line’s original tunnels for the kids. After four miles, we turned back to refuel with a hearty lunch in the Hassop Station cafe, and toasted a fantastic morning with hot chocolates piled with cream and marshmallows.
The afternoon saw us return to the Monsal Trail. This time, though, we weren’t cycling over its towering viaducts but climbing through the railings of one them – bridge No 75 in Miller’s Dale – to abseil the 24 metres (80ft) down to the river bank below.
I thought our kids, six and eight years old, might balk at the idea of dangling above the fast-flowing river Wye, but, trusting in the quietly reassuring and incredibly friendly Ed Allaway from outdoor education centre Thornbridge Outdoors, they both hopped through the railings and leant back over the precipice without so much as a whimper.
We all did it multiple times, dropping down to inches above the water before being pulled on to the bank. Kids can just be lowered, but our eldest elected to control her own descent, albeit with a backup rope. An adrenaline-filled afternoon was topped off with a tranquil walk along the river Wye from the bridge – birds swooped down to drink, the bright green moss covering the trees caught the evening light, and we didn’t see another soul.
Exhausted but elated, we headed to our cosy bolthole at the Devonshire Arms pub in Pilsley to flop into bed, but not before dinner in the restaurant of beautifully cooked pub food with a sophisticated twist (think golden pies and locally sourced meats from the Chatsworth estate, but with silky jus and fondant potatoes) and a comfortingly simple kids’ menu.
Day two saw us donning climbing harnesses again, this time with Paul Lewis from Peak Mountaineering, to scale Yarncliffe quarry, a beautiful National Trust site. The children have climbed indoors before, but this was their first foray into ascending real rock. Under the expert and endlessly kind instruction of Paul, they gamely patted about for firm hand-holds and learned how to wedge their feet and hands into the cracks that run vertically up the cliff. My husband and I climb regularly and had longed to climb in the Peak District national park – the gritstone routes didn’t disappoint and we plan to come back with the kids to explore the many routes of Stanage Edge and Burbage North with Paul.
Next up was an abseil over the cliff. Something about leaning back over a natural feature, rather than a manmade bridge, made the kids more reluctant, but Paul had lowered thousands of children off that same cliff and knew exactly how to coax ours into achieving it. He was also full of fascinating facts and had the kids entranced with tales of how the spongy sphagnum moss is antiseptic and was used by soldiers to pack their wounds in the first world war.
In the afternoon, he took us weaselling at Higger Tor, near Hathersage. For those unfamiliar with weaselling (I was), it involves scrambling over the giant rocks at the foot of the tor and wriggling through the little spaces and tunnels underneath them.
It was an absolute hit with the kids. One minute they were there, next minute they’d disappear down a hole, only to resurface a few feet away. They emerged filthy and ecstatic, begging to stay on when we suggested it was time to leave.
While they weaselled, we went over the top of the rocks and took in the vista of the Dark Peak (the Peak District is split into the gritstone, peaty, heathered Dark Peak and the gentle limestone White Peak).
That evening, we feasted on steak, sea bream and creamy linguine at the brasserie in the New Bath Hotel in Matlock Bath and the kids practically fell asleep into their white chocolate ice-cream. The combination of fresh air, adventure and excitement meant that we actually had to wake them at 9am the next morning to get the train home.
We sampled just a fraction of what the Peak District national park has to offer and we can’t wait to go back for more (“I want to come and live here,” said the youngest; the oldest nodded in agreement).
Don’t leave home without ...
Men’s Powder Lite hybrid hooded jacket, £100
This lightweight jacket comes in a hybrid, water-resistant fabric, giving stretch and breathability. Features include zippered pockets, a scuba hood and a drawcord-adjustable hem.
Boy’s Big Puff jacket, £70
Junior adventurers will stay warm and dry in the great outdoors with this insulated puffer jacket that uses a water-resistant fabric. Practical features include an adjustable hood and hand pockets.
Women’s Terrebonne Outdry Ex mid shoe, £145
Waterproof and breathable, this mid-cut shoe is designed to keep you dry and protected when hiking. The lightweight footwear has an outer membrane and a high-traction Vibram outsole.
All products available at cotswoldoutdoor.com/brands/columbia
Columbia Sportswear, in partnership with UK national parks
