I’m always insanely jealous when I meet wiry eager-beaver types who tell me they’ve trekked the banks of the Nile or scaled the lower slopes of Mount Everest solo, and how much better it was travelling alone, encountering more people without the encumbrance of a partner. I suppose I’m just a self-conscious coward, though, because I don’t enjoy going solo, not even while dining, stuck in a book between forkfuls of food, nodding at the waiter to discreetly bring the second glass of wine. I like a bit of company and repartee over the old prawn scampi and plonk. As far as I’m concerned, the social experience and atmosphere are as important as what’s on the plate.
However, in a recent burst of bravery, I embarked on a solo passage across India (its cuisine, anyway), inspired by Asheesh Dewan’s childhood railway journey from Trivandrum in Kerala to Dharamshala in Delhi. In those glorious days of yesteryear, Asheesh tells us, the most prestigious trains in India had restaurants and dining cars, run with pride and flair, each proudly serving its own distinctive regional cuisine along with some continental fare. Luckily, I only had to travel as far as his fabulous Ananda restaurant in the penthouse at Dundrum Town Centre.
I’d fallen in love with the romance of his seven-course Railway Journey Tasting Menu (€85) before I ever picked up a knife and fork. The vintage menu cover alone on Instagram had done the job. Wine pairings are available also, bringing the cost, with choice of Prestige/Premium wines, to €140/€180, but I stayed on the straight and narrow for the main. Still, I’ll give you a sense of the pairings.
So here I was, the one in the corner, on my comfortable banquette, engrossed in my ‘book’ — Twitter — bravely sipping my glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne to kick off the voyage, being tended to by the most solicitous staff.
The journey started in Coonoor in the state of Tamil Nadu with a Konoor Gucchi, a stunning, crispy, cottage cheese and whey dumpling, topped with foam and resting on a mushroom ragout, encircled by a biscuit-like fenugreek khasta arch. This was paired with Lawson’s Hills Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough.
Next stop was Nellore, a city on the banks of the Penna River in the state of Andhra Pradesh, renowned for its rich agriculture as well as the export of prawns, shrimp and sugar cane. Hence, two delicious skewered chargrilled jumbo prawns resting on mashed avocado were tweaked with crispy fennel and pea shoots. This was paired with Peth-Wetz Riesling Rheinhessen — a wine I rather like.
Changing tracks from the scheduled Chooza Jalandhari — a Punjabi chicken dish with lavender korma — for me, they kindly substituted a divine, superbly seared tranche of halibut in a lemon-leaf bouillabaisse, topped with crispy kale. The accompanying wine was Luigi Baudana, Langhe Bianco Dragon.
The Kala Khatta sherbet in its little pot broke the journey halfway, and, after a short pause, we headed for the elevated city of Solan, nestled in the Shivalik Hills of the Himalayas. An elegant presentation showcased a stunning pink lamb chop in a vibrant onion and saffron jus, scattered with the coolness of mini white turnip leaves and millet puffs, and was just superb. This was paired with La Mascota Malbec Mendoza.
Snaking our way along to Angoori in Lahore, a creme brulee was embellished with mini gulab jamun — seductive rose-flavoured, syrupy-sweet balls of delight. The glass of Kopke 10-year-old Tawny Port NV proffered in the wine pairing with this dessert sounded just perfect. Malabar coffee was the final station, as the waiter explained that this Indian favourite involved heating up instant coffee and hot milk, creating an almost treacly flavour.
A superb experience all round, and great value considering what’s on offer. With bottled water and service, my bill came to €105. Who knows, I might yet do a Princess Diana, looking wistful toute seule in front of the Taj Mahal!
Ananda, Dundrum Town Centre, Sandyford Road, Dublin 16. Tel: (01) 296-0099 anandarestaurant.ie
lucindaosullivan.com
