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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Travel
Nicola Brady

Newport Beach, California guide: Where to eat, drink and stay in the epitome of Orange County cool

Getty / iStock

Even if you’ve never been to Newport Beach, it’s a place that’ll probably feel familiar. Over the years, it’s played a background role in many films and television shows, from Beaches and Treasure Island to The OC and Arrested Development. There’s even a swish film festival held every October, which draws in the stars.

This coastal city is the epitome of Orange County living, with al fresco restaurants dotted around a yacht-filled harbour, miles of sandy beaches, and laidback bars where locals drink rosé in flip flops. With 10 distinct neighbourhoods, Newport Beach is more a city of villages, from Balboa Island (reached via a cute, three-minute ferry) to Corona del Mar, where clifftop homes overlook a surf beach below. The Pacific Coast Highway cuts through the city, making it a good stopover for those doing the classic road trip down the California coast.

If you’re ready to live that OC life, this guide brings you the best things to do in Newport Beach, from the hottest hotels and restaurants to the activities you won’t want to miss.

Best things to do

Whale watching

Humpback whales and blue whales can be spotted between May and November
— (Getty / iStock)

This stretch of coastline is renowned for its marine life, with whales and dolphins congregating in their droves just off the shore. Head out with Newport Coastal Adventure, and you’ll speed along the coast on whip-fast Zodiac boats, accompanied by naturalists whose knowledge is second to none. Between May and November, you might see fin whales, blue whales, humpbacks and, in all likelihood, hundreds upon hundreds of common dolphins, who surround the boats leaping and playing around the bow all year round.

Read more on California travel:

SUP yoga

The Back Bay is a peaceful wetland nature reserve, where Sunday morning joggers make their way around the hiking trail and people bike along the wooden bridges and boardwalk. You can rent stand-up paddleboards at Pirate Coast Paddle and head out on the water, or go one better with a SUP yoga class from SoCal Paddle Yoga. On the calm waters of the bay, you’ll be led through a series of poses on the board, for an experience that’s a little more challenging but a hell of a lot more fun.

Duffy Boat

A good way to get your bearings in the marina (and to snoop on all the enviable waterside real estate) is by taking an electric Duffy boat from Sea Señorita. You’ll get taken all around the harbour, passing seals and sea lions flopped on jetties along the way. As you go, you can tuck into charcuterie and sparkling wine, or take advantage of the Dock and Dine scheme, with your journey ending at the jetty of a local waterside restaurant – sushi at Buddha’s Favorite is a good shout.

Visit Crystal Cove

Bette Midler fans may recognise Crystal Cove from the movie Beaches
— (Nicola Brady)

Part of the Crystal Cove State Park, the Crystal Cove Conservancy is a collection of shorefront cottages, restaurants and hiking trails along the beach, which Bette Midler fans will almost certainly recognise. The little cottage at the end of the sand is where they shot the movie Beaches, and there’s an excellent little museum inside that tells the story of all the other films made there. But you can also just sit on the deck and listen to ‘‘Wind Beneath My Wings’’ as you watch the waves roll in.

Best time to visit Newport Beach

Oddly, May and June can be fairly murky in California – earning the local nicknames of Grey May and June Gloom. The best time to go is September, when the sun is still strong but the summer crowds have started to disperse – just be mindful of Labor Day weekend (the first Monday in September), when prices are higher.

Where to stay in Newport Beach

VEA Newport Beach

VEA Newport Beach is right by Fashion Island, with great views over the neighbouring golf course and out to the ocean. The rooms are bright and sleek, and the beds super plush. Each morning, there are complimentary yoga and HIIT classes in the fitness suite (where there are also Peloton bikes) and there’s a decent-sized pool and hot tub, complete with a pool bar. The all-day VIEW restaurant is a bit of a draw for locals, and you can get a kale salad, sushi and a BLT with avocado.

Crystal Cove Conservancy

There are 24 beach cottages at Crystal Cove Conservancy, 14 of which are private and 10 laid out dorm style, with private rooms but shared public spaces. As it’s a non-profit, the prices are kept reasonable, but the cottages are the ultimate in beach-shack cool, with original mid-century features, rolltop baths and incredible views – keep an eye out for dolphins and whales passing by. The cottages are right on the sand, and as you might expect, bookings are competitive – reservations are opened every day for the date six months ahead, so it’s a Glastonbury-esque speed click if you want to snag one yourself.

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Lido House

Set on the waterfront at Lido Isle, Lido House has the kind of breezy, beach house interiors you’d see in a Nancy Meyers movie – think white wood, blue stripes and subtle nautical notes. There’s a saltwater pool and American lawn games like cornhole and giant beer pong. If you’re visiting as a group, the on-site cottage is very cool.

Best cafes and restaurants in Newport Beach

In Lido, Malibu Farm is a classic brunch spot with a menu that’s oh-so-Californian: think raw Brussels sprout salad, cauliflower crust pizza and acai bowls. There are tables on the water and usually a few cute dogs underfoot. Over at Crystal Cove, the retro Beachcomber Café is the place to go for a hearty American breakfast, with giant burritos stuffed with turkey chorizo and pepper jack cheese, and fluffy lemon ricotta pancakes. Their Bloody Marys are particularly jazzy, served with a crab claw and jumbo shrimp poking out of the glass.

If you want a taste of the boujie country club life, get a waterside table at A+O Restaurant in Balboa Bay Resort. You can watch the sailboats drift up the Newport Marina while tucking into Caesar salads and fish tacos. In the summer, there’s an outdoor tequila bar for mezcals and margaritas. If you’re at Corona del Mar beach, grab a sandwich from The Jetty, where you can get tuna melts the size of doorstops and poke bowls loaded with tofu, just steps from the sand.

Get as close to the heat of the kitchen as possible with the chef’s table dining experience at Bello
— (Bello)

It’s not often that you’ll find an elegant tasting menu made in the same kitchen that’s slinging out wood-fired pizzas. But that’s just what you get at Bello by Sandro Nardone. Foodies can go for the Bello Chef’s Table experience, where you can watch chef Zach Scherer prepare elaborate dishes with microgreens and homemade vinegars, but those on a budget can get an excellent prosciutto pizza without breaking the bank.

A Restaurant is a classic New York-style steakhouse, where the lights are dim, the booths are cosy and the steaks are massive. Each one comes with a whole head of roasted garlic, the bulbs squeezed out on the beef by your waiter.

Frozen bananas dipped in chocolate are a must-try when visiting Newport Beach
— (Nicola Brady)

You can’t leave Newport Beach without getting a frozen banana, dipped in chocolate then the topping of your choice, such as chopped nuts or Fruity Pebbles. Made famous by Arrested Development, there are two competing joints that claim to have invented the treat, but the best is Sugar ‘n Spice – get the frozen banana dipped in everything, which is a combination of all the toppings.

Best bars in Newport Beach

In Newport Beach, more champagne is consumed per capita than anywhere else in the US, so it’s only polite to follow their lead. The best place to go for a glass is Topside at Lido House – it’s the only rooftop bar in the city, with great views of the ocean and a cosy little seating area inside a lighthouse tower. They also have their own signature champagne blend from Piper-Heidsieck.

On Balboa Island, Huskins is a small-batch coffee shop with an airy, Parisian vibe; their cold brew hits the spot on a sunny day. This is California, so you will probably get a craving for a green juice at some stage. If so, head to Porrovita near the Lido Marina Village, where you can add hemp or matcha to their “Kale-i-fornia” juice.

Best beaches

Get ready for wide stretches of golden sand and decent waves
— (Nicola Brady)

The main drag at Newport Beach is a wide stretch of sand where you’ll find the pier and a gaggle of beachside bars, cafés and restaurants. But the better beach is a little further down at Corona Del Mar, where the bay is sheltered and surrounded by giant volcanic boulders. Further along you’ll find Little Corona del Mar Beach, a teeny bay flanked with cliffs and popular with divers. On a clear day, you can see out to Catalina Island (of Step Brothers Catalina Wine Mixer fame).

Where to shop

The name is a bit of a giveaway, but Fashion Island is a shopping hotspot, a giant outdoor mall with a blend of local stores and well-known names. There’s an outlet of the nearby Laguna Beach jewellery brand Gorjana, as well as Voluspa and Faherty, for that California casual aesthetic.

There’s more of a boutique feel to Lido Marina Village, with the kind of small, independent stores frequented by locals with glossy hair and fancy athleisure gear. Skip the vintage rails (where you might see an old M&S jumper on sale for $225 – seriously) and head over the street to Swellegant, where the racks are packed with dresses, jumpsuits and accessories from the 1950s to the 1980s. At the back of the store, there’s a bargain rail where everything is $4.

On Sunday mornings, there’s a farmer’s market held by the Newport Beach pier, where you’ll find everything from organic dog treats to activated charcoal lemonades, as well as local berries, greens and freshly baked breads.

A farmer’s market is held every Sunday next to Newport Beach’s famous pier
— (Getty / iStock)

How to travel around Newport Beach

You can walk around each neighbourhood, but generally not between them as they’re pretty spread out. Public transport is fairly light on the ground – most people rely on their cars – so if you’re not doing a road trip or simply don’t want to drive, Uber is readily available; it generally works out cheaper than parking, too. Expect to pay around $12–$15 for a 10-minute journey.

Architectural highlights

For Selling Sunset-style snooping (the Oppenheim OC office is just around the corner) take a walk along Ocean Boulevard in Corona del Mar. Each home is a jaw dropper, with price tags often nudging $20m.

FAQs

What currency do I need?

US dollars.

What language do they speak?

English.

Should I tip?

20 per cent on every meal or drinks bill is pretty much the expectation.

What’s the time difference?

GMT-7.

What’s the average flight time from the UK?

11 hours to LAX; Newport Beach is around an hour’s drive away from the airport.

What’s the best view?

Head out to the end of Newport Pier at sunset and you’ll have the whole coastline spread out in front of you.

Insider tip?

Drinking in the US can get expensive, so check out the local Happy Hours. Usually held from around 3pm until 6pm, the deals include cheaper food and booze, and plenty of restaurants and bars take part.

Read more on the best California hotels

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