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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Annabelle Thorpe

Legends of the fall: 10 UK pubs with rooms for autumn stays

Woodland path through a deciduous forest in autumn, Watersmeet, Exmoor National Park, Devon.
Woodland path through a deciduous forest in autumn, Watersmeet, Exmoor National Park, Devon. Photograph: robertharding/Alamy

Elveden Inn, Elveden, Suffolk

Part of the vast 22,500-acre Elveden estate, owned by the Guinness family, this charming pub with rooms is surrounded by the Brecks, one of the most wildlife-rich areas in the UK, part of Thetford Forest. Stroll the forest tracks beneath blazing autumnal canopies, and look out for stone curlews, woodlarks and nightjars, roe and red deer, hares and muntjac. The High Lodge Forest Centre has play areas, cycle trails and a tree canopy adventure course – ideal if you’re visiting with the kids, with family rooms (sleeping up to four) available at the inn. Doubles from £105 B&B; elvedeninn.com

The Rockford Inn, Exmoor, Devon

A street view of the Rockford Inn exterior on a sunny day, there are potted plants outside and trees in the distance
The Rockford Inn, Devon Photograph: Stephen Dorey/Alamy

Tucked away in the remote Brendon Valley, the Rockford feels delightfully off-grid, with footpaths from the door through wooded valleys and spectacular gorges that burn auburn and scarlet as the leaves turn. Rooms are simple but comfortable, but the real charm is in the communal areas; refreshingly ungentrified, with leather-topped bar stools, toby jugs and a roaring fire in the lower bar, with shelves of books and scrubbed wooden tables in the galleried upper bar. There are circular walks from the door, including to Watersmeet, where the East Lyn and Hoar Oak rivers meet. Two-night breaks from £99 B&B; therockfordinn.co.uk

The Huntsman of Brockenhurst, Hampshire

A horse stands in a clearing of tall trees with autumn leaves
Hollands Wood near Brockenhurst, New Forest National Park, Hampshire. Photograph: Slawek Staszczuk/Alamy

The New Forest’s great swathes of oak, beech and birch blaze with colour in the autumn, while ponies and pigs roam freely and the forest floor is mottled with scarlet fungi and ripples of auburn bracken. Brockenhurst makes an ideal base, close to the spectacular planting of the Rhinefield Ornamental Drive and the Knightwood Oak trail, named after the 500-year-old tree known as the “Queen of the Forest”. Stay at the Huntsman of Brockenhurst, an upscale gastropub with 13 treat-filled rooms, including White Company toiletries, Nespresso machines and pleasingly fluffy bathrobes. Doubles from £122 B&B; thehuntsmanofbrockenhurst.com

The Wild Hare, Tintern, Wales

The exterior of the Wild Hare pub on a sunny day, it is a stone building with three tables outside
The Wild Hare, Tintern. Photograph: PR IMAGE

The Wye Valley – flanked by steep forested hills that glow burnt orange and butter yellow in autumn – is at its most beautiful around the village of Tintern, where the roofless 12th-century abbey rises up against the sparkling waters of the River Wye. The Wild Hare sits at the heart of the village, with walks from the door – including stretches of the Wye Valley Walk and Offa’s Dyke Path. Rooms are chic and contemporary in neutral tones, while the bar offers comfy sofas for a welcome post-walk slump, and a varied menu of pub classics in the cosy dining room. Doubles from £125 B&B; thewildharetintern.co.uk

The Greyhound Inn, Aldbury, Hertfordshire

The exterior of the Greyhound Inn, it is a brick building with a white picket fence, it is a sunny day with autumn leaves on the vine that spans the pub
The Greyhound Inn, Hertfordshire. Photograph: PR IMAGE

Sitting next to the National Trust’s Ashridge Estate – famous for its swathes of beech trees that flame with vibrant orange hues in autumn – the Greyhound Inn is a classic country pub with stripped floorboards, slouchy Chesterfields and a roaring log-burner in the bar, alongside a sleek dining room. A great choice for families, the pub offers triples and family rooms, as well as a self-catering cottage next door, with hearty Sunday roasts and pub classics providing post or pre-walk fuel. Tring Park – also famous for its autumn colours – is a few minutes’ drive away. Doubles from £120 B&B; greyhoundaldbury.co.uk

The Swan, Ashdown Forest, East Sussex

Heath during dawn on Ashdown Forest High Weald, East Sussex
Heath during dawn on Ashdown Forest High Weald, East Sussex. Photograph: HerbySussex/Getty Images/iStockphoto

Follow in the footsteps of Winnie-the-Pooh and Christopher Robin with a weekend in Ashdown Forest, with trails snaking through the Hundred Acre Wood, over Poohsticks Bridge and past AA Milne’s former home, all backlit by blazing terracotta, gold and amber hues. The Swan lies at the heart of the forest, in the bustling village of Forest Row, with six contemporary-styled bedrooms, a sunlit outdoor terrace and an inventive menu, including a range of good vegan options. Doubles from £99 B&B; theswanatforestrow.com

Queen’s Head, Hawkshead, Cumbria

The Queens Head pub on a sunny day, it is a white pub with black beams, there are hanging baskets of flowers and blackboard menus outside
The Queens Head, Cumbria. Photograph: Nick Maslen/Alamy

Open to weary walkers since the 17th century, the Queen’s Head is a super-cosy, dog-friendly pub with stone-flagged floors and roaring fires, along with 13 rooms including a family suite, sleeping up to four. Hawkshead is just a few minutes’ drive from Grizedale Forest, where the trees blaze amber, russet and scarlet – particularly along the Millwood Trail, home to some of the oldest trees in the forest. Grizedale is also famous for its sculpture trail, with over 200 pieces of work scattered through the 4,000 hectares of trees. There are walking and cycling routes for all abilities, with the Queen’s Head offering excellent pizzas and indulgent puds for returning wanderers. Doubles from £90 B&B; queensheadhawkshead.co.uk

House o’ Hill Inn, Galloway Forest Park, Scotland

Wild Mountain Goats on the hills in Galloway Forest Park
Wild mountain goats on the hills at the Wild Goat Park in Galloway Forest Park. Photograph: Cie Photos/Stockimo/Alamy

The only inn inside the Galloway Forest park, this charming pub on the outskirts of Bargrennan village is ideal for a spot of leaf-peeping, along with the chance of seeing red deer, mountain goats and red kites. There are just two guest rooms, adding to the lovely feeling of escape, with Egyptian linens and a continental breakfast provided in the guests’ “snug”. Local produce is a big part of a stay here, with wild venison from the Galloway hills, local fish and shellfish and an excellent selection of whiskies. Dogs are welcome, too (£10 per night). Doubles from £110 B&B; houseohill.co.uk

The Forest Lodge, Edwinstowe, Nottinghamshire

The Forest Lodge exterior
The Forest Lodge, Nottinghamshire. Photograph: Sebastian Anderson/PR

An 18th-century coaching inn within easy walking distance of Sherwood Forest, this is the perfect place to return to after days spent walking beneath the leafy canopy of birch, sweet chestnut, oak and beech, which explodes into vibrant shades of russet and gold in autumn. The air is thick with the calls of the chiffchaffs, as they prepare for migration, the forest floor dotted with over 300 species of fungi. Back at base, there are two menus to choose from – à la carte and pub classics – served in both the pub and restaurant areas. Doubles from £110 B&B; forestlodgehotel.co.uk

The Plough Inn, Hathersage, Derbyshire

Plough Inn at Leadmill near Hathersage.
Plough Inn at Leadmill near Hathersage. Photograph: Idp Collection/Alamy

Set on the tranquil banks of the River Derwent in the heart of the Peak District, this 16th-century inn is family-owned, giving it a lovely, welcoming feel, and is ideally located close to Padley Gorge – one of the best places in the region to see autumn colours. A lattice of footpaths weave beneath the trees, with a lovely circular walk that takes in Hathersage Moor. At the Plough, choose from one of the seven comfortable rooms, or cute luxury shepherd’s huts, and tuck into hearty pub food, washed down with a good selection of local ales. Doubles from £130 B&B; ploughhathersage.com

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