“At the moment, waking up in Hobart is a dream,” says Dr Virginia Andrews-Goff.
“The days are settled and warm and the light is golden … [and] every evening when I drive home, there’s this moment that I round a sweeping bend and head down towards a beautiful bay.”
Andrews-Goff, a marine mammal research scientist and keen surfer, has a surf beach home just 30 minutes out of the Tasmanian capital. “If I turn my head to look out my window, I can see the sun sitting behind the mountain,” she says. “At that moment, my nervous system settles and I hit relax mode.”
The drive home to Clifton Beach. Photograph: Rémi Chauvin.
Her love of Tasmania’s open spaces, amazing land formations and wildlife is also what draws her to the vast Antarctic region on the state’s doorstep. This proximity happens to be the catalyst for why she stayed put after finishing her PhD at the University of Tasmania, and took up a role at the Australian Antarctic Division.
A humpback breaches off the southern coast of Tasmania Australia. Photograph: M.L Haring.
Andrews-Goff is one of the many specialised practitioners who make the most of Hobart’s location as a gateway to Antarctica, pursuing innovation in an array of fields. For Andrews-Goff, that takes the form of studying the movement and behaviours of whales living in the marine environment shared between Australia and the Antarctic. And she’s already made the journey to that icy wonderland half a dozen times.
Mawson’s Huts Replica Museum. Photograph: Rémi Chauvin.
“The privilege of being able to visit such a wild and magnificent place will never be lost on me,” she says. “When I’m in Antarctica, I can feel very small. Everything is so grand, and cold and you’re at the mercy of the elements. It’s a great way to understand perspective and the need to live in balance with our natural environment.”
Andrews-Goff says her awe and respect for nature isn’t just reserved for the Antarctic. “There are places in Tasmania where I’ve felt that exact same thing – the pristine, cold beauty of Cradle Mountain brings me that same feeling. [In Tasmania you can] seek out those wild and uninhabited places that are so good at reminding us of how magnificent this natural world is.”
Clifton Beach. Photograph: Rémi Chauvin.
One incredible thing she’s keen to note about Tasmania is that any visitor can witness the majestic mammals she studies day in, day out.
“November is a great month for humpbacks that are migrating southwards to Antarctica, usually close to the coast with their calves. I’ve done fieldwork on humpbacks off the Tasman Peninsula at that time of the year and you really can’t miss them – unless you’re too busy looking at the magnificent cliffs along the coastline.”
As well as whale-gazing, there’s a huge amount in store in Tasmania for those keen on marine life, whether it’s a trip to Bruny Island to spot seals, penguins and dolphins, or taking in the array of biodiversity on display at the Queen Victoria Museum.
But because the spectacular ecosystem surrounding Tasmania is so precious, Andrews-Goff emphasises how vital it is to respect the environment every step of the way.
Andrews-Goff, who wears her proud Tasmanian heart on her sleeve, says every visitor can take some simple steps to make them a more “conscious tourist”. There are plenty of practical ways to be an appreciated visitor, from taking a leave-no-trace approach to camping, to proactively supporting Tasmania’s passionate and engaged community of creators and producers.
“[It can be as easy as] choosing the local supermarket or specialist grocer, buying that locally designed and made piece of clothing, indulging in local produce and restaurants,” she says. “Buying products that anchor you in the experiences that Tasmania has to offer.”
Photograph: Tourism Tasmania
Her other recommendation for those venturing down? Arrive in the coolest months for something really special. “My favourite days are those icy and dead-still winter days, where all the colours are crisp and bright, and the mountain seems to sit that much closer to the city because the air is so clear.”
Festival of Bright Ideas (17 August, 2024)
Hobart
This experience showcasing cool science is a particular favourite of Andrews-Goff. “I really enjoy visiting and taking part in the Festival of Bright Ideas,” she says. “It’s a festival that brings together children to celebrate science. You can do virtual reality experiences, muck around with drones, undertake experiments. Basically whatever you can think of science-wise that exists in the science sector in Tasmania is at this festival, and the kids absolutely love it.”
Australian Antarctic Festival (22-25 August, 2024)
Hobart
This popular biennial event showcases the amazing Antarctic realm so close to Hobart. It not only celebrates the history of Australia’s connection to the continent, but the amazing work Australians are doing there right now. The festival takes place across various sites on Hobart’s famous waterfront, including at Mawson’s Huts, the replica of the structures used by Australian scientist and explorer Sir Douglas Mawson on his famous 1911-14 Antarctic expedition. It’s a must-see museum in its own right.
Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary
Brighton (30-minute drive from Hobart)
Top of the list for furry-friend devotees, this sanctuary houses some of Australia’s most iconic animals, from quolls and wombats to, yes, Tasmanian devils. “They also do an incredible job rehabilitating sick and injured animals,” Andrews-Goff says.
Book a feeding time tour for a close-up view.
Pennicott Wilderness Journeys
Departure from Hobart
A day cruise with Pennicott Wilderness Journeys can be a stunning way to explore Tasmania’s coastline, from its vertiginous sea cliffs up high to its dreamlike sea caves below, and the fantastic wildlife and marine life throughout, from sea eagles to seal colonies.
Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery
Hobart
A treasure trove of natural specimens awaits visitors – from fossils to animal exhibits and geological samples.
